St Anne’s Court W1
This area, and particularly Wardour Street, is the centre of the film industry in London so it will come as no surprise to find the offices of World Wide Pictures at numbers 21 to 25. Casper’s Restaurant and Bar is along the south side of the Court, and for lighter refreshments the Court Café is at number 28. Approaching the western end the Court becomes narrower and on the left is Clarion House owned by the Soho Housing Association, providing accommodation for local families at reasonable rents. The block stands on the site of the ‘model flats’ for working classes built by William Burges in 1865 and demolished in 1967. They looked for all the world like the bleak barrack dwellings of the Peabody Estates. All this land was once owned by the Crown and in the 17th century it was acquired by the Duke of Portland. For nearly two centuries the Court remained active as a settlement for political refugees from France and Switzerland.
Nearby is the tower of St Anne’s church, after which the Court is named – its nave was destroyed by bombs in 1941. The church was consecrated on the 21st March 1686 by the Bishop of London, Henry Compton. It was a hasty occasion brought on by an Act of Parliament which stated that it was to be a parish from the first Lady Day following the consecration. Lady Day was less than a week away and the service had to be performed on a Sunday. Had it not been consecrated on that day, the church wood have stood idle for a whole year. The peculiar tower, added in 1806 when much development was taking place round here, is all that now remains. On the wall is a memorial to Baron von Neuhof, that strange character who settled in France, then took up office in the Swedish forces, was active in the Jacobite plots, and then in 1736, by some quirk, donned the crown as King of Corsica. His subjects soon threw him out, forcing him to leave the country, and he came to Soho looking for compassion from the charitable English. With equal hostility they gave him the cold shoulder and he died without a penny to his name in a debtors prison. Also commemorated on the tower wall is the writer William Hazlitt, who also died in poverty in 1830 at number six Frith Street.
St Bride’s Avenue EC4
Bride Avenue is the narrow alley which leaves Fleet Street almost opposite Shoe Lane and turns eastward to pass between St Bride’s Church and the rear of the Old Bell Inn, with an additional branch leading by way of a wide covered path into Salisbury Court. It was once a significant passageway, arched over at the Fleet Street entrance, but is now open to the elements and serves merely as a short cut, for those in the know, between New Bridge Street, Fleet Street and the Bishop of Salisbury’s Court.
The rear entrance to the Old Bell, by which most of the regulars arrive, is really quite unobtrusive; a plain door devoid of any accompanying signs leaping out to declare the facilities on offer. Inside, there are no plush carpets or secluded lighting, no gimmicky themes – the Bell is a solid pub and exists for the solid City drinker as it was originally intended. It stands on the site of the Swan tavern, where Wynkin de Worde, assistant to William Caxton, is supposed to have used a room as his workshop. When Sir Christopher Wren drew up his plans for rebuilding St Bride’s church in 1671 he constructed the Bell as accommodation for his men working on the site. Available food is basic; a sandwich, a roll, or a pie, all displayed, with accompanying plastic banana and orange, in the little glass case on the bar. The Bell has stood the test of the ages and has emerged with first class honours. Its clientele used to come mainly from the newspaper trade; journalists, printers, and men of advertising jostled for a place at the antique counter. Now that the newspapers have moved to other parts and almost brought to an end the centuries old street of print, the clientele is more varied. How Fleet Street, or St Bride’s Avenue would survive without the Old Bell is beyond contemplation.
St Bride’s Passage EC4
UG: Blackfriars
Bus: Any to Ludgate Circus
From Ludgate Circus walk along the south side of Fleet Street for about 100 yds. turn left into Salisbury Court and about 70 yds turn left.
St Bride’s Fleet Street is enclosed in a quadrangle of alleys all bearing its name – Avenue on the north and west sides, Lane to the east, and Passage on the south. However, the naming has not always been so intimate; the Passage used to be known as Bells Buildings, but that name was discontinued at the beginning of the 1900’s to bring it into the fold. St Bride’s Passage is now a cul-de-sac and leads from Salisbury Square through a covered opening to an wider yard where the St Bride’s Institute occupies a site at the far end. From the opened out Passage the view of St Bride’s church is something of a variation from that experienced from other angles.
At the time of the Great Plague, John Milton was living at a tailors house in St Bride’s Passage. To avoid catching the dreaded disease he moved to Chalfont St Giles and afterwards, when the all clear was sounded, took up residence at a house in Artillery Walk, Bunhill Fields, where he spent his final days.
St Christopher’s Place
UG: Bond Street
Bus: 6 7 8 10 12 13 15 16A 23 73 94 98 113 135 137 139 159 to Bond Street
From Bond Street Station cross to the north side of Oxford Street. St Christopher’s Place is easily identified by the ornamental clock standing on the edge of the pavement outside Gee’s Court, about 15 yds east of James Street. Turn into Gee’s Court and cross Barrett Street to find the Place.
In the same mode as Gee’s Court and Barret Street this enchanting Victorian street, once called Barrett’s Court, has been pedestrianised and the tiny shops have been restored to their 18th century likeness. A plentiful array of hanging sign boards add to the authenticity. Boutiques make up a large percentage of the shops in the Court but a sufficient selection of outlets for other wares contribute to a very worthwhile browse. The whole length of the Court is adorned with a mass of potted flowers and shrubs, all automatically watered from sprinklers above. There is a proliferation of eating houses including Masako Japanese Restaurant at number eight, an Austrian restaurant at number nine, there is a Thai restaurant, and just before emerging into Wigmore Street, an English cafe with outside tables. Also at the Wigmore Street end is the decoratively painted Pontefract Castle Tavern with its St Christopher’s Bar. Then, in keeping with the charm, a graceful ornate iron arch with centre light looks onto Edward Harley’s Wigmore Street.
St Christopher’s Place exists today as a proud and worthy memorial to Octavia Hill, housing reformer and a founder of the National Trust. She was educated at Queens College and with the encouragement of John Ruskin went on to become one of the most enthusiastic activists for the clearance of slums. Her first project was commenced in 1865 but the greater part of her work was carried out from 1884 to 1888 and her efforts were probably the instigating inspiration for the newly formed London County Council to continue with the work.
In the mid-19th century Barrett’s Court was a truly filthy place; a typical uncared for back alley, a repository for waste and rubbish. Octavia Hill came across the Court in 1870 and was so shocked at the state of dilapidation that she bought it in readiness for preparing future plans. Renovation work was put into operation in 1874 and at the beginning of 1877 all the newly refurbished shops were let, and Miss Hill commented that it was ‘going so beautifully’.
Octavia Hill clearly held strong reasons for renaming the court St Christopher’s Place; she was affectionately drawn to the saint, and his principles, she thought, seemed right. Three cheers for Octavia Hill!
St Clement’s Court EC4
(see Church Court EC4)
St Dunstan’s Alley EC3
UG: Monument
Bus: 15 25 100 D1 D11
From Monument Station turn onto Eastcheap and walk east along the south side. Cross Pudding Lane, Botolph Lane, Lovatt Lane and St Mary at Hill, then at the next turn right into Idol Lane. St Dunstan’s Alley is about 40 yds on the left.
Near to St Dunstan’s Alley, at the bottom of Idol Lane, is the tower and remaining shell of St Dunstan in the East. The church is reputed to be of the 14th century and some form of renovation was carried out in the early 17th century. It was partially destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666 but the main structure of the church was left intact. Only the tower was so badly damaged that it had to be demolished.
Rebuilding of the tower was by Wren in 1671 but the spire was not added until 1699. The whole creation is of spectacular proportion. Four pinnacles are set at each corner of the square tower and the crowning spire is supported on four flying buttresses.
World War II brought an end to the life of St Dunstan’s with the nave and chancel being destroyed in 1941. Wren’s tower and steeple were also badly damaged but were later repaired. The shell of the church still remains – with trees and foliage growing out of its windows – and the whole of the area has been laid out as a garden by the Worshipful Company of Gardeners. It is an idyllic spot to relax for a while or enjoy a packed lunch away from the noisy traffic, but it naturally gets very busy during summer lunch times.
St Dunstan’s Court EC4
UG: Blackfriars
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76 171A
Off the north side of Fleet Street, between Chancery Lane and Fetter Lane.
One would quite naturally assume that where a church and a court of the same name exist in the same locality, they would be situated adjacent to each other – in this case they are not. The church of St Dunstan in the West is located some yards to the west of Fetter Lane, whereas St Dunstan’s Court is about 150 yards away on the east side of Fetter Lane. Because of the distance separating church and Court we can deduce, therefore, that St Dunstan’s Court had no direct association with the church and was so named merely because it was in the parish.
This is perhaps the least interesting of the Fleet Street Courts; it leaves the main street by a covered passage and in a few paces, where the City Literature Institute is on the left, turns right and becomes Bolt Court. Beyond here is an intriguing cluster of alleys, all linked in an intricate maze. The area is steeped in historical associations and makes a fascinating place to explore.
Although I have mentioned that the church and Court have no direct association it would nevertheless be inconceivable to pass so close to St Dunstan in the West without reference. It is the second church on the site to be dedicated to St Dunstan, although the construction date of the first building is unknown, but thought to be just prior to the Norman Conquest of 1066. St Dunstan was a 10th century Bishop of London who became Archbishop of Canterbury. He was canonised shortly after his death and as no new London churches were dedicated to Saxon saints after 1066 the date of building seems to point to the first half of the 11th century.
By a cats whisker the church narrowly escaped damage in the Great Fire but it was in such poor structural condition that major repairs had to be carried out in 1701. However, these repairs could not rectify the wear and tear of centuries and in 1752 George Dance proposed rebuilding and submitted his plans. They were rejected and the old church remained standing for almost another eighty years until it was declared unsafe and pulled down in 1829.
St Dunstan’s was a famous landmark in Fleet Street, notable for its large clock face, and two giants housed in a stone porch and standing aside two bells on which they struck the hours with clubs. These time pieces were made in 1671 and when the church was demolished they were purchased by the Marquis of Hertford to grace his new house in Regent’s Park. Lord Rothermere later came into possession of them and in 1935 returned them to their rightful place.
John Shaw was the architect responsible for the present church, built in 1832 – it boasts a fine robust square tower with pinnacles at the angles and topped with a tall octagonal crown. Beneath, in the shadow of the tower, the two giants stand ready to gong the hours, and under the clock itself is the statue of Queen Elizabeth I, rescued from the old Ludgate when it was demolished in 1760. It is thought to be the only one made during the lifetime of the Queen and was originally positioned on the western aspect of the gateway; Elizabeth herself must have looked at it many times as she passed on her way to St Paul’s. Also removed from Ludgate are the figures of King Lud and his two sons; they were on the eastern aspect, looking up the hill towards the Cathedral and now, appearing somewhat weathered, they shelter inside the porch.
Since 1952 St Dunstan’s has been one of the London Guild Churches and is the London home of the Romanian Orthodox Church.
St Helen’s Place EC3
UG: Liverpool Street
Bus: 8 25 36 35 40 47 48 67 149
Leaving Liverpool Street Station, cross to the east side of Bishopsgate. Continue in a southerly direction, crossing Houndsditch and Camomile Street. St Helen’s Place is then about 90 yds.
‘A large court called Little St Helen’s, because it pertained to the nuns of St Helen’s, and was their house.’ So records Stow
St Helen’s Place was once the most gloomy of cul-de-sacs but it was transformed by the replacement of buildings at the beginning of the century. The ornate entrance to the Leathersellers’ Company Hall is here; the Hall itself occupies part of the site of St Helen’s convent buildings and dates from 1878, but the entrance was replaced in 1959.
As a company the Leathersellers’ were first heard of about 1370 when along with the Pursers’ they presented a request before the Court of Aldermen for regulations to be made against the sale of artificial leather, and to prevent deceptive colouring. Their first charter was granted by Henry VI in 1444 ‘to guard and oversee defaults’, and to present names of offenders to the Mayor and Court of Aldermen. Shortly after their incorporation the Leathersellers’ settled in premises near to London Wall but when St Helen’s nunnery was dissolved in 1538 the Company purchased the buildings forming the domestic quarters and adapted them to suit their own needs. These ancient buildings were pulled down in 1797.
A few strides to the north of St Helen’s Place is all that remains of the tiny church of St Ethelburga, reduced to a derelict shell by the Bishopsgate bomb of 1993. At the time of writing neither the remains of the church or St Helen’s Place are accessible, this entire area is closed off and under redevelopment on behalf of the Corporation of London.
St Ethelburga’s, dedicated to the sister of Erconwald, fourth Bishop of London, and first Abbess of Barking Abbey, was probably built during the mid 12th century but the present church is a replacement of about 1400. The original wooden spire was removed during a renovation project in 1775 and replaced with a squat square bell tower and turret with weather-vane. Until 1932, access to the church was between two minute shops which partly obscured the facade, with their upper storeys extending to just below the curve of the west window. This, the smallest and one of the oldest City churches, was never any great architectural monument; it was no museum of memorials to the rich and famous, but it was a beautiful relic and symbol of faith.
In some respects St Ethelburga’s has been fortunate; It escaped the Great Fire, and not one stone was dislodged by Hitler’s bombs. Its devotees have triumphed in fighting off successive Bishops of London, hell bent on closing it down, but the IRA have sadly succeeded where everyone else has failed. After some controversial years the Bishop of London has finally decided that the church is to be rebuilt near to its original style.
St James’s Court SW1
UG: St James’s Park
Bus: 11 24 201 507
From St James’s Park Station walk along Broadway towards Victoria Street and in about 100 yds turn right into Caxton Street. At the end of Caxton Street turn right into Buckingham Gate. St James’s Court is about 50 yds on the left.
The grand entrance to St James’s Court furnishes the mind’s eye with all it needs to flash an accurate impression of what lies beyond. If persuasive powers are a strong asset and the gateman flinches, there are many exquisite apartments to be seen here, set in like surroundings consisting of extensive gardens.
Next door to the Court is the St James Hotel, and almost opposite, on the corner of Petty France and Buckingham Gate is the old Bluecoat School founded in 1688, now the National Trust Gift Shop and Information Centre. The little square building was built in 1709 for William Greene, of the family who founded the brewery in Stag Place, later taken over by Watney’s. It was built to a design thought to be by the hand of Sir Christopher Wren. Set into the wall is a statue of a charity boy dressed in blue uniform and yellow stockings with the inscription below ‘The Blew Coat School, built in 1709’.
St James’s Passage EC3
UG: Aldgate
Bus: 15 25 40 42 67 78 100 253
Turn right (west) out of Aldgate Station and walk along Aldgate High Street. Cross Houndsditch then in about 55 yds turn right into Mitre Street and right again into Mitre Square. St James’s Passage leads from the east side of the Square.
The whole of this intricately laid out triangle bounded by Leadenhall Street, Creechurch Lane, and Duke’s Place forms the site of the Augustinian Priory of Holy Trinity, Aldgate. It was founded in 1108 on the site of parts of the parishes of St Mary Magdalen, St Michael, St Katherine, and the Blessed Trinity. A plaque in Mitre Square identifies this as being the location of the cloisters and the Priory church a little to the south.
After the premature surrender of the Priory, in 1532, brought about by mounting debt, the buildings were acquired by Sir Thomas Audley who retained the domestic quarters but was delayed in his plans to demolish the church through problems in hiring labour. He lived in the enhanced property until his death in 1544 and through marriage the estate eventually fell to the Duke of Suffolk who did a deal with the City Corporation and scooped up a handsome profit on the sale. (See Sugar Bakers Court).
Duke’s Place, as the house was called, was quickly pulled down and the site was laid out with streets, most of which were lined with small cottages, each with a private garden. Although the church of St Katherine Cree was close by, the new residents felt detached and without a parish church, and so petitioned the Archbishop of Canterbury to build a new church in a newly formed parish. Permission was duly granted and the consecration and dedication to St James took place in 1622.
One of its great claims of notoriety was the unannounced and uncertificated marriage ceremonies performed here. Because of an ancient law concerning the precincts of the old Priory, St James’s, for some time, was outside the jurisdiction of the Bishop of London and so enjoyed the freedom of pleasing themselves on various matters.
In 1873 St James’s was declared surplus to requirements; the following year its parish was united with St Katherine Cree and the church was demolished. St James’s Passage which provided access to the west door of the church is still here, in itself looking in some ways as it did in 1622. It leaves cobbled Mitre Square through four posts bearing the City of London coat of arms and wends on past the Village Snack Bar and the Diocese of London’s Sir John Cass Foundation, towards Duke’s Place.
St James’s Row EC1
UG: Farringdon
Bus: 55 243 259 255
From Farringdon Station turn into Turnmill Street by the side of the station. At the end turn right into Clerkenwell Road then left into Clerkenwell Green. On the north-east side of Clerkenwell Green turn into Sekforde Street and in about 30 yds bare left into St James’s Walk. St James’s Row is 75 yds on the left
Near to the church of St James, the parish church of Clerkenwell, is a satisfying cluster of little alleys, all standing on the site of Clerkenwell’s first religious house, St Mary’s Nunnery. It was founded by Jorden Briset about the year 1100, and only a few years before the rather better known Priory of St John, Clerkenwell’s second religious house. In fact the Priory was built on ten acres of land purchased from the nuns of St Mary’s.
Almost from the time of its foundation, the nuns church had been used as a place of worship by the general public, but the unacceptable disturbances caused by the coming and going led the nuns to open a private chapel for their use. It was dedicated to St James and although it was part of the nunnery church it functioned as a parish chapel without interference from the nuns. When the nunnery was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1533 and became Crown property it remained unused for many years and most of the buildings fell into disrepair. The domestic quarters were eventually pulled down but the church was left standing. By the mid-17th century the nave had collapsed and only the chancel, choir and tower remained intact. With no apparent use for the remains, the Crown donated the church to the parishioners of Clerkenwell who used it as their central place of worship for the next 130 years. During this time no major renovation work was carried out and the stability of the building deteriorated to the extent that in 1790 it was declared dangerous, and demolished. The replacement, present church, was completed in 1892 by James Carr and the steeple, built to the former design, was added later.
On the outside of the eastern wall of St Mary’s Nunnery, near the corner of Ray Street (off Farringdon Road) was Clerk’s Well, which gave its name to the district. It was around this well that the parish clerks of London presented their annual religious performance, known as miracle plays. In the 1800’s the well was unofficially used as a refuse disposal point and became choked with rubbish, emitting terrible smells. It fell into oblivion and was disregarded until it was cleaned out and reopened during excavation work in Farringdon Road about 1920. The well is still open to view on application to the London Borough of Islington.
St John’s Path EC1
UG: Farringdon
Bus: 55 153 243
From Farringdon Station turn into Turnmill Street by the station and in about 50 yds turn right into Benjamin Street. Take the first left into Britton Street and on the right pass Briset Street. St John’s Path is about 40 yds on the right.
From time to time we come across a passage of extra ordinary antiquity, and St John’s Path is certainly that. At one time it was known as St John’s Passage and served as the path between St John’s Rectory house, which stood adjacent to the passage, and the Priory Church in St John’s Square. There is nothing here now to remind us of the past, even the old worn paving, hollowed by centuries of tramping feet, has been replaced by modern materials.
The Passage runs from Britton Street through an archway, to St John’s Square where at number two is the Coach and Horses tavern. Hanging from the wall of this tavern there used to be a most unusual sign depicting a lioness attacking the leading horses of a mail coach, while a country yokel waiving a pitchfork, and a dog try to fight off the animal. The scene was set near to a pond and, in the background, a lonely inn. The event as portrayed in the sign actually happened and took place on the 20th October 1816. The mail coach was on its regular route between Exeter and London with intermediate stops along the way. At one of the usual calls, Winter’s Low Hut, about seven miles from Salisbury, the driver was unloading the sacks when a stalking lioness pounced on the leading horse. Seeing this, a haymaker in a nearby field, followed by a large mastiff ran to ward off the ferocious beast, but it turned on the dog and gave chase. Against such a powerful animal the dog had no chance – it was killed and devoured within forty yards of the coach. It seems that the lioness had escaped from a travelling circus on its way to Salisbury Fair. She was eventually surrounded and caught in a barn with blood still dripping around her jowls.
Until 1935 Britton Street went under the name of Red Lion Street and an equally true story surrounds the tavern after which it was named. The Red Lion was a popular tavern of its day; the clientele were well catered for, there was always a welcome at the door and the landlord, a seemingly cheerful chap, was there to meet every demand. Unknown to the customers was the young fellow confined to the depths of the dingy cellar, forever at the beck-and-call of his uncle, the landlord. He was John Britton, assigned to the tavern under the guidance of his uncle, supposedly to learn the trade of an innkeeper. The lad suffered a most miserable existence, never allowed to see the light of day and fed from the scraps left on the plates of the charmed punters. His chores, which extended far beyond those of a cellar man, kept him from his damp mattress in a corner of the dingy hole, well after the tavern doors were closed. Poor health, brought on by years of confinement, was a constant problem for the boy.
One morning when his uncle called down the cellar to arouse the weary lad from his slumbers, there was no response – young John had done a bunk in the early hours and fled to unknown parts. He was eventually taken on as a clerk by a company of architects and developed an interest in the work of his professional colleagues, reading on the subject and taking instruction. In later years John Britton became a notable architect of his time; he wrote a number of books and often voiced his opinion on the structural creations of his counterparts. Speaking of churches, he once said, ‘there have been scarcely any pre-eminent specimens of art in the edifices erected. There are few we can fully approve and admire, but many that provoke censure.’ Britton died in 1857.
St Margaret’s Court SE1
UG: London Bridge
Bus: 21 35 40 133 344 D1 P3 P11
From the southern end of London Bridge pass under the railway bridge into Borough High Street. Pass London Bridge Street, then St Thomas Street and on the right pass Southwark Street. St Margaret’s Court is then about 90 yds on the right, opposite Queens Head Yard.
St Margaret’s Court has only existed in name since 1837, just prior to the demolition of the Borough Comptor, which occupied the nearby site of St Margaret’s Church. However, the Court has physically existed since at least the 15th century when it was known as Fishmongers’ Alley, where the Company of Fishmongers’ owned a row of storehouses which were let out to local traders. In the mid-16th century the Company disposed of the property and offered the freehold to sitting tenants.
The church of St Margaret was built during the 12th century and stood on the site nearby known as St Margaret’s Hill, although John Stow refers to Market Hill ‘where the leather is sold’. In 1540 the parish was amalgamated with St Mary Overy and the church and its graveyard were sold to the authorities for use as a prison ‘called the Compter in Southwark… wherein the assizes and sessions be kept’. When a ferocious fire swept along the High Street in 1676 none of the inns along the street escaped unscathed and the Borough Comptor was burnt to the ground. In a matter of months the neighbouring inns were resurrected and once again flourishing, but the comptor remained a shambles – an eye-sore to the many travellers passing through. For nearly six years the site lay as an unattended plot before rebuilding began. The Comptor ceased to function in 1855 and the entire site was cleared shortly after.
The are no remaining memorials to St Margaret’s or the Comptor other than the courts bearing their names, and neither of these places are endowed with lavish allocations of rare curios.
St Martin’s Court WC2
UG: Leicester Square
Bus: 24 29 176
St Martin’s Court is off the east side of Charing Cross Road about 40 yds south of Leicester Square Station.
St Martin’s Court, Lane, Place, and Street were all named, as might be supposed, from the church of St Martin in the Fields. This notable London landmark was built originally in the 12th century as a chapel for monks working in the Abbey fields so that they would be spared the backwards and forwards trek to Westminster for the saying of daily offices. When Henry VIII, in his great fury began to abolish the monasteries in 1533 the Abbey was surrendered to the Crown along with the convent garden. This move rendered the chapel of St Martin’s redundant and it was demolished. Only ten years later, a new church was built on the site and the northern half of the parish of St Margaret’s Westminster was given over to St Martin’s.
St Martin’s Court, with its three rather plain gaslight standards in a line just off centre of the path, has two entrances leading from Charing Cross Road, one adjacent to the station and the other a few yards further south. This is the heart of theatre land, and in the Court are the walls of two theatres. Between the two entrances is Wyndhams Theatre and at the opposite end in St Martin’s Lane is the Albery Theatre. The Brewmaster public house is on the corner just by the station. Further into the Court is the black painted Round Table Wine and Ale Bar. The Salisbury, a characterfully preserved Victorian pub, frequented by members of the acting profession, is on the corner of St Martins Lane. All the books on motoring and travel you could ever want are stocked by Motor Books at number 33.
St Michael’s Alley EC3
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to the Bank
St Michael’s Alley is off the south side of Cornhill, about 185 yds east of Bank station and about 35 yds east of Birchin Lane. The church of St Michael, Cornhill with its decorative arched door is on the corner.
Set in from the pavement and hidden from view between offices and the church of St Michael, Cornhill, St Michael’s Alley is easily missed.
St Michael’s was once the crowning glory of the City. Its tower, gleaming white and higher than any other in the City, could be seen for miles and served as a direction indicator for travellers. As modern developers have extended their creations forever skyward St Michael’s is now but a dwarf encircled by a forest of concrete and glass.
Turning into St Michael’s Alley, the eye will at once be drawn to the enormous lamp style sign suspended over the walkway just past the church. This is the red bricked Jamaica Wine House, one of London’s most interesting drinking dens. It started out in 1652 as the Turk’s Head, a common-or-garden tavern of its day serving wine and ale under the watchful eye of landlord Edwards. However, Mr Edwards didn’t realise that he was setting the foundations of a little piece of history when he returned from a journey over seas loaded with coffee beans and accompanied by a surf named Pasqua Rosee (Easter Rose) who was adept in the art of soaking the beans to produce a palatable beverage. Setting Pasqua to work, Edwards invited his friends to call and sample the new drink. Within days the word spread from one side of the City to the other and soon Mr Edwards was tearing his hair out through interruptions from a constant flow of visitors. He was at his wits end when the bright lad suggested he might consider charging for the infusion. Brilliant idea – Edwards leapt in the air, instantly made enemies of all his friends, and the very next day the first coffee shop was born.
Today the Jamaica Wine House still serves fine coffee along with a range of beers and wines. It also has an excellent restaurant behind windows displaying account books of centuries past. A wander inside will reveal the magnificent oak panelled walls and the unusual browned panelling on the ceiling. Out in the narrow Alley is a plaque set into the wall recording for posterity the establishment of London’s first coffee house. The building was restored after being badly scared in the 1748 fire of Cornhill.
It is believed that there was at one time in the region of 3000 coffee houses in London, catering for all different classes of clientele. They were the clubs of the 18th century but quite different to anything we have today. Every type of business was conducted within their walls and each coffee house had its own particular speciality. You would have gone to a coffee house to consult a medical practitioner, to arrange the copyright on your latest book, or to sell your stocks. If your interest was perhaps nothing more than lively conversation you might have gone to one of the many houses in Fleet Street where authors, journalists, actors, and general men of wit gathered. The numerous coffee houses located around Cornhill catered for financiers; stock brokers, bankers and the like – quite a different scene from those somewhat social establishments further west. In fact a stranger to London wishing to contact a certain gentleman would have had more success in enquiring which coffee house he frequented rather than asking where he lived.
Turning left around the Jamaica Wine House leads to a secluded garden at the rear of St Michael’s Church. There is ample seating here among tastefully planted gardens – an ideal escapement.
St Mildred’s Court EC2
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to the Bank
St Mildred’s Court is off the north side of Poultry, a short distance from Bank Station and opposite Walbrook (by the Mansion House).
St Mildred’s Court leads nowhere and today access is denied through the existence of massive sturdy iron gates. There is very little evidence on display here of past associations, but there are certainly deep-rooted memories of old times. Here, on the corner of the Court, where the impressive building of the Midland Bank now stands, was the medieval church of St Mildred, Poultry, built about 1200. The old church was pulled down and rebuilt in 1457 over a filled in section of the Walbrook, a stream that followed the course of St Mildred’s Court, continuing across Poultry, and along the line of the street which now bears its name. John Stow tells us that the parish priest, John Saxton, donated £32 towards the rebuilding of the new choir ‘which now standeth upon the course of Walbrooke.’ Devastation struck on the 4th September 1666 as the Great Fire swept along Poultry leaving the church a burnt out shell. It was replaced to a design by Wren and on completion the parish of St Mary Colechurch, another victim of the fire, was amalgamated with that of St Mildred’s. By 1870 St Mildred’s was so poorly attended and with its financial position at rock bottom the parish was incorporated into St Olave, Jewry. Two years later the building was pulled down and the new offices of the Gresham Life Assurance Company were erected on the site. This building was little more than 50 years old when the Midland Bank took an avid interest in the site and such was their determination to acquire it that they met the total cost of rehousing the Company in new premises in Fleet Street.
Demolition of the Gresham offices and the construction of the new Bank offices took an amazing twelve years to complete – they were opened in 1938. Effigies at either end of the building of a boy tussling with a goose are a reminder of the poultry market which gave its name to the high street.
Between 1800 and 1809 Elizabeth Fry lived in a house which stood adjacent to the Court and a little further to the west, at number 31, used to be the bookseller’s shop of Vernon and Hood. In a room over the shop Thomas Hood was born on the 23 May 1799.
St Olave’s Court EC2
UG: Bank
Bus: 8 25 501
From Bank Station cross to the north side of Poultry. Walk past St Mildred’s Court and Grocers Hall Court then turn right into Old Jewry. St Olave’s Court is about 75 yds on the left.
In the maze of little alleys and lanes just to the north of the poulterer’s stalls of the Cheapside market, the ironmongers clattered and banged in their tiny shops producing an untold selection of hardware items. Some specialised in the making of certain products like pots and pans, knives, or fire implements while others were general manufacturers, open to orders of every kind. The intense competition for business compelled them to work day and night – a slow worker could easily lose orders in favour of a man able to supply immediately. Among all this great activity was a parish church dedicated to St Olave. He was Olaf Haroldsson, king of Norway and through determination to unit his people in belief of the Christian faith the nation adopted him as their patron saint. Ousted from power by Danish king Canute II, Olave thereafter turned his affection to London in an effort to preserve the City from the Danes when Canute became king in London (1016). Olaf was highly favoured and in his honour the City dedicated three churches to his name.
St Olave, Jewry, or St Olave, Upwell as John Stow had seen it written, was built in the mid-12th century and stood along the northern line of the Court with the graveyard to the west abutting onto Ironmonger Lane. For the first few years the patronage of the church was with the Dean and Chapter of St Paul’s but in 1171 it was handed over to the Prior of Butley Convent in Suffolk. However, the church in England was still under the jurisdiction of Rome but all that changed in 1533 when Henry VIII broke off allegiance to the Pope; the Convent of Butley was closed and the King seized the patronage of St Olave’s for the Crown.
On the 4th September 1666 the whole of Ironmonger Lane and the numerous alleys around were swallowed in the flames of the Great Fire and St Olave’s, along with its neighbour church, St Martin Pomeroy, was totally destroyed. Seven years later, the church was reopened for worship, rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren to his magnificent architectural standard. However, the following years saw a gradual exodus from the expensive houses of the City and churches were more and more experiencing dwindling congregations; in 1888 St Olave’s was declared redundant and all but the tower was demolished.
Today, St Olaves Court is as attractive as it ever was. The church tower, for some time incorporated into the vicarage of St Margaret, Lothbury, still remains, now in use as the offices of Sullivan and Cromwell. It stands at the end of a cobble stoned path through a pretty garden, laid out on the site of the old graveyard.
Adjacent to St Olave’s Court, to the south, is the charming Frederick’s Place, commemorating Sir John Frederick, Lord Mayor of London in 1661. Surely this must be the outstanding floral treasure of Cheapside. In the summer months it is a shear picture of delight with multicoloured blooms spraying forth from a proliferation of planting boxes at every window. It is almost like a village lane just before the ‘Britain in Bloom’ competition.
St Peter’s Alley EC3
UG: Bank
Bus: 8 26 35 47 48 67 253 or any to the Bank
From Bank Station walk east along Cornhill, on the south side of the Royal Exchange. Pass Birchin Lane and continue past Ball Court and St Michael’s Alley. St Peter’s Alley is then about 55 yds on the right.
This is a pleasant secluded area offering an ideal retreat from the hustle and bustle of the streets beyond. Here stands the church of St Peter’s, Cornhill which is now used as a Christian Aid study centre and is currently not open to the public. The first reference to a church on this site was in 1040, but its foundations are probably the most ancient in the City, for it seems that there has been a place of worship here since the year 179. ‘the first archbishop of London, in the reign of Lucius, built the said church by the aid of Ciran, chief butler to king Lucius; and also that Eluanus, the second archbishop, built a library to the same adjoining, and converted many of the Druids, learned men in the Pagan law, to Christianity.’ At the time of the Great Fire St Peter’s was severely devastated but despite attempts to restore the fabric it had to be demolished and Sir Christopher Wren was brought in to raise a new church in 1680. Substantial restoration work took place in 1872. Of particular interest is the carved wooden rood screen, one of only two in a Wren church – the other, and perhaps finer example, is in St Margaret, Lothbury. The distinction of this example is that it was specifically built for St Peter’s, whereas that in St Margaret’s was transported from Allhallows, Thames Street. Mendelssohn is known to have played the organ here and the instrument on which he played is still installed, although the console is confined to the vestry. To the south of St Peter’s is the elevated graveyard of which Dickens commented in Our Mutual Friend that the graves were ‘conveniently and healthily elevated above the living’. It was in use as the main place of burial for the parish until 1850 and following closure it was laid out as a garden for public use.
St Stephen’s Row EC4
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to Bank
Use the underpass to cross from Bank Station to Queen Victoria Street/Walbrook. Turn into Walbrook and St Stephen’s Row is on the south side of the Mansion House.
With its old stone flag paving St Stephen’s Row is crushed between the Mansion House on the north side and St Stephen’s Church on the south. It winds round the rear of the Mansion House to link up with Mansion House Place.
Two previous churches have occupied the site, the first built about 1100 and the second in 1429. That which we see here today was completed in 1679 by Sir Christopher Wren and, second only to St Paul’s, it is the master’s magnum achievement. The exterior of the church is uninspiring being dominated at a distant view by the four-storey tower and spire, but inside, the prospect is of a different matter. On entering, the eye is immediately taken up to the painted dome supported on eight arches and slender Corinthian columns. This is a church of vast space filled with dazzling light streaming in from the lantern windows beneath the 43 feet diameter dome. The pulpit and reredos are fine examples of carved woodwork of Wren’s time, but the organ casing was added in 1765. The font is of marble with an ornamental wooden cover composed of carved figures by William Newman. Amid controversial objections a hideous large round central altar was installed in 1986 – it does nothing to compliment this great piece of architecture. St Stephen’s was damaged in World War II but is now fully restored.
Salisbury Court EC4
UG: Blackfriars
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 45 63 76 172
From Ludgate Circus walk west along the south side of Fleet Street. Past Bride Lane and Bride Avenue. Salisbury Court is then on the left.
Leading from Fleet Street this Court formed the main driveway and access road to the London residence of the Bishop’s of Salisbury. In 1564 the diocese of Salisbury decided to rid themselves of the ever increasing maintenance costs and sold the house to the Earl of Dorset who renamed it after his title.
Samuel Richardson, novelist, printer, and outer-circle acquaintance of Samuel Johnson, lived at a house in the north west corner of the Square. Through the success of his novels, Pamela and Clarissa, Richardson became a wealthy man and enjoyed a somewhat luxurious life. It was at this house, in 1753, that Johnson and William Hogarth first set eyes on each other. Hogarth had visited Richardson for discussion concerning the execution of one Dr Cameron. While in conversation he noticed with some alarm a strange figure peering out of the window, shaking his head and rolling about in a very peculiar manner. Hogarth instantly thought him to be a chronic lunatic put under the care of Richardson. It was not until a later date that he became aware that this was Johnson.
Undoubtedly the best known resident of Salisbury Court was Samuel Pepys. He was born in 1633 at a house on the east side, only a few yards from Fleet Street – a blue plaque now marks the spot. Much of what we know about London life in the 17th century is attributed to Pepys and without his meticulously kept diary we would not be so wise concerning the Great Plague and Great Fire of London.
In 1629 a disused barn and grain store at the far end of Salisbury Square was converted and opened as the Salisbury Playhouse. It remained until 1649 when it was pulled down and replaced in 1660 by a new theatre for the Duke’s Company of Players. Unfortunately, only six years late the Great Fire devastated the area and reduced the building to ashes.
At number four Salisbury Court the first editions of the Sunday Times saw the light of day. It commenced publication here on the 20th October 1822. The premises are now occupied by Hughes Allan Management Services Ltd. Except for number one on the north side of Salisbury Square all of the old buildings have now been demolished and have gradually been replaced in major redevelopment. Salisbury Square House has succeeded the Salisbury Hotel, which used to occupy the south side of the Square
Salters’ Hall Court EC4
UG: Cannon Street
Bus: 15 17 25 521
Off the north side of Cannon Street, about 70 yds east of Walbrook. Opposite Cannon Street main line station
Here was the home of London’s first Mayor, Henry Fitz Ailwyn. It was later taken over by John de Vere, Earl of Oxford and after him it became the property of John Hart, son-in-law of Lord Burleigh. (see Oxford Court). Also in this Court, and providing its name, was the Hall of the Salters’ Company.
Before the days of refrigerators and modern food additives, salt was the most widely used preservative of meat and particularly fish. For centuries all butchers and fishmongers have used it as a vital resource of their trade and the demand for the commodity made producers and suppliers a very wealthy branch of society. As science advanced the term ‘salter’ extended to those trades and professions where salt was ancillary to the main product.
It seems that the Company of Salters’ was in existence as early as 1350 but it was some 200 years later before their first charter was granted by Elizabeth I in 1558. By this time they were already established in their Hall in Bread Street. In fact the first Hall, built about 1454 on land left by Thomas Beamond, a sheriff of London in 1422, had burnt down 1539 and its replacement was erected on the same site.
The move to Salters’ Hall Court, which of course took the name at a later date, was in 1641 when the Company purchased Oxford House from John Hart. Twenty five years later the Salters’ were without a home once more – on the 3rd September 1666, the second day of the Great Fire, Salters’ Hall was gutted, leaving nothing more than a shell of the ‘fair and large built house’. The losses sustained were enormous; their substantial library and treasured archives were largely reduced to a heap of ashes.
By 1672 the Company was back in residence and enjoyed a relatively trouble free passage through to 1821 when the building was declared unsafe and it was pulled down. In its place was erected their fifth Hall which would have been here today had it not been ruined by enemy action in 1941.
In 1687 part of the site of the old Oxford House was leased by the Company to a self-styled congregation of protestants. Here they built their chapel, to be known as ‘Salters Hall Chapel’, where their eloquent pastor, Mr Mayo, held enthralled congregations in stone-like posture for hours on end. It is said that at every meeting the crowds clambered up at the windows outside to grasp a snatch of his oration. Under successive leaders the congregation remained as solid and as numerous as ever, and the introduction of a ‘Lord’s Day evening sermon’, in about 1695, saw numbers swelled to an unprecedented all time record. These sermons continued until 1821 when the Salters’ turned their thoughts to rebuilding their Hall and gave the congregation notice to quit with almost immediate effect, whereupon the pastor and his sheep acquired premises in next door Oxford Court. Referring to this gathering, the author Tom Brown wrote in 1709: ‘A man that keeps steady to one party, though he happens to be in the wrong, is still an honest man. He that goes to the Cathedral in the morning, and Salters’ Hall in the afternoon, is a rascal by his own confession.’ However, the atmosphere was unsatisfactory for their cause and eventual abandonment soon followed, leaving their chapel vacant for a bizarre band of religious fanatics who called themselves ‘The Christian Evidence Society’. This bunch fell into financial difficulties, were forced to abandon the place, and in 1827 the Baptists moved in and remained until moving to Islington in 1868.
Sandy’s Row EC2
UG: Liverpool Street
Bus: Any to Liverpool Street stn
Opposite Liverpool Street ML Station turn into Middlesex Street (signed Petticoat Lane Market). Keep to the left and branch off along Widegate Street. Sandy’s Row crosses in about 50 yds.
Sandy’s Row is just one small part of a meandering complex of narrow byways hidden away behind Bishopsgate. It has probably been here since the mid-17th century when most of this area was first laid out into streets, although its length has been severely curtailed from the original when it followed part of the line of present Middlesex Street (Petticoat Lane). There is no firm evidence of Sandy himself but it may reasonably be assumed that he was either a previous resident or the principle builder of houses here.
The Row presents itself in a very similar way to neighbouring Artillery Passage with its innumerable hanging signs. There are not so many signs here but the place is just as enchanting as it twists along its narrow way. Look out for the King’s Stores public house – as though you could miss it. This is a deceivingly large pub with a name commemorating the royal warehouse that once occupied the site. However, story has it that one of the past regulars used to nightly take his pet pig and donkey for a walk and call in for a swift one while he left the two animals tied up outside. As a consequence frequent customers have for years referred to the house as the Hog and Donkey. The King’s Stores is a convenient place to call on Sunday lunch times after browsing round Petticoat Lane Market.
Saracen’s Head Yard EC3
UG: Aldgate
Bus: 40 67 100 253 D D11
From Aldgate Station cross to the south side of Aldgate High Street. Walk west and cross Minories then in about 35 yds turn left into Jewry Street. Saracen’s Head Yard is the first turning on the right.
By the early 1600’s the Aldgate district was already well populated with inns and taverns but the continuing demand for even more saw the opening of the Saracen’s Head in about 1650. It faced on to Aldgate, opposite to the site of Holy Trinity Priory, which was prematurely dissolved just prior to the Reformation. As it appears today, Saracen’s Head Yard still conveys something of its original intended purpose, even if everything here is now ultra-modern. Although considerably smaller than in the days when coaches rumbled over the cobble stones setting off for stops en-route to East Anglia, it still holds the dimensions worthy of a yard.
London’s most successful inns were situated just inside or outside the City gates; ideal locations for catching weary travellers who needed to shack up for the night when the locks went on. This was one of the benefits enjoyed by the Saracen’s Head – along with its thriving coach trade there was an almost unending stream of people seeking rooms. Strategically positioned just inside the Roman wall the Saracen’s Head stood adjacent to the Aeld Gate or Old Gate on the busy road to Cambridge. The line of the wall at this point ran along the east side of Jewry Street where in the cellar of the Three Tuns public house the remains of a short length are still to be found.
Until about thirty years ago there was a pre-Fire house standing at number 7 Jewry Street. It was built in 1650 and displayed a plaque which proudly declared that it ‘survived the Great Fire of 1666 and the Blitz of 1940-45’. Then the developers came along and promptly replaced it with Boundary House.
Savoy Court WC2
UG: Charing Cross
Bus: Any to Aldwych
From Charing Cross Station walk east along the south side of the Strand. Cross Villiers Street then in about 220 yds cross Adam Street. Savoy Court is then about 120 yds on the right.
Savoy Court is not really a court at all, but the grand entrance to the Savoy Theatre and the luxurious Savoy Hotel. By rights it should not have a place within these pages at all – only in the most far-reaching sense could it be regarded as a byway – but, it is designated a court, although I challenge anyone to find the sign which tells you so.
Both theatre and hotel were founded by Richard D’Oyly Carte of Savoy Operas fame. He built the theatre in 1881 to stage productions of his cherished Gilbert and Sullivan operas. A few years later he had the idea of building a hotel to match up to the lavish designs of modern American; it was originally a block facing south along the Thames but in 1904 the northern extension was added and Savoy Court was transformed into its forecourt.
‘Savoy’, however, is a name that had existed for centuries prior to D’Oyly Carte, and before the ancient ancestors of William Gilbert or Arthur Sullivan were even the faintest twinkle in their mother’s eyes. It all started in 1245 when Peter, Count of Savoy and uncle to Queen Eleanor, built his mansion on the site of a house once owned by Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester. Eleanor later bought the house, enlarged it, and made a present of it to her son Edmund, Earl of Lancaster. Through marriage the Palace of Savoy, as it was called, then passed into the hands of John of Gaunt who took up residence and lived a life of almost royal luxury, entertaining the noble and the famous. Geoffrey Chaucer was here from time to time, enjoying lavish hospitality and it was here that he was enticed by the pretty young girl who became his wife.
During the occupancy of John of Gaunt the palace was twice looted by unlawful gangs. First in 1376 when Gaunt became the subject of outrage resulting from his threat to haul the Bishop of London from his throne in St Paul’s, out to the streets by the hair of his head. Five years on, in 1381, Wat Tyler’s mob could not accept that ‘they be greater lords than we be’ and burnt it down. As the place was set alight some of the bunch ravaged the collection of precious plate, then descended to the wine cellars, got drunk, and thirty two of them were sealed in by falling masonry as the blaze quickly took hold. As this was taking place, others of the mob found barrels, which they assumed contained jewellery and valuable stones and tossed them into the flames. They never found out that these casks held the Gaunt stock of gunpowder.
A small part of the palace was rebuilt by Henry IV but most of the site lay in ruins until Henry VII donated resources to found a hospital for the relief of one hundred poor people. The hospital was overseen by a master and four priest assistants who each took turns to stand at the gate and invite all destitute wanderers to partake of food and drink. Any who were travelling between towns were offered a bed for the night and sent on their way by morning with adequate money to reach the next institute for the poor. But some took advantage of the good natured spirit of the Savoy Hospital staff and instead of being allowed to continue their work for the genuine needy the place became a resort of beggars, loiterers, vagabonds, and unvirtuous women. The unhappy end to the hospital came in 1702 when Queen Anne thought it a disgrace and closed it forever. Most of the building remaind standing until 1810 when it was all cleared away in preparation for the new approach road to Waterloo Bridge. Nothing now remains of the ancient hospital but for a flight of steps, known as Savoy Steps, to the east of the Hotel.
Above the glittering portico of the Savoy Hotel is one other reminder of those bygone days – the armoured figure of the Count of Savoy who was responsible for this courtly site.
Scott’s Yard EC4
UG: Cannon Street
Bus: 15 to Cannon Street Station
11 17 23 26 76 149 521 to Mansion House Station
On the east side of Cannon Street ML Station walk down Bush Lane for about 30 yds and turn right. Scott’s Yard is an archway beneath Cannon Street Station.
On the west side of Bush Lane, tunnelling beneath the platforms of Cannon Street Station is Scott’s Yard, a passageway existing from at least the early 15th century. Of course, until the building of Cannon Street Station the passage was open to daylight and was lined on both sides with a range of tall warehouses for the storage of coffee, cotton and tobacco. According to Stow, it was once called Carter Lane,’of carts and car[t]men having stables there’ but at the time he compiled his Survey of London he says that the name had changed to Chequer Lane, or Alley, ‘of an inn called the Chequer’. The inn was here as early as 1480 when it was listed as a brewhouse and other buildings, but all were reduced to ashes in the Great Fire. In about 1670 the inn was once again established in the Yard and is described as having a passageway with a gate leading onto Dowgate Hill. It was apparently an insignificant inn used mainly by local traders who stabled their horses in the yard. By 1754 it had disappeared beyond all mention and was probably demolished in the 1730’s.
Here also, on the north side of the Yard, stood the Plumbers Hall. Their old Hall had been completely destroyed in the Great Fire and the new site offered the opportunity to erect a spacious building of grand styling. It was pulled down in 1800 and replaced by a block of warehouses called Plumbers Buildings, named after the Company, who moved round the corner to a new site in Bush Lane. This, their third Hall, was demolished in 1865 when the railway company took possession of the land for the construction of Cannon Street Station. They are currently without a company hall
Since the most recent redevelopment of this locality Scott’s Yard offers no right-of-way between Bush Lane and Dowgate Hill. It is privately owned and protected by a roller shutter.
Shafts Court EC3
UG: Bank
Bus: 15B 25 40 67 253 to St Mary Axe/St Andrew Undershaft
8 26 35 47 48 149 to Leadenhall Street
Leave Bank Station and turn into Cornhill, on the south side of the Royal Exchange. Cross Finch Lane and continue across Gracechurch Street into Leadenhall Street. Shafts Court is about 110 yds on the left.
The first of May was a joyful time in many parts, but Shafts Court and its neighbouring byways enjoyed a lions share of the jovial celebrations which took part on that day. Early in the morning, the largest may-pole, or shaft, ever seen was taken from the iron hooks beneath the eaves of a row of houses either side of the Court, and erected outside St Andrew’s Church. So tall was the shaft that, in its upright position, it extended beyond the highest pinnacle on the church tower and from that time St Andrew’s became known as ‘under-the-shaft’. Children skipped and played, with garlands around their heads, each one having the honourable pleasure of taking hold of a ribbon and dancing round the towering pole until its entire length was a show of neatly ordered colours.
Everyone looked forward to the big welcome offered to the month of May – drink flowed plentifully but there was seldom any significant trouble; that was, until 1517. In that year an almighty scuffle broke out between a band of local youths and foreigners living in the parish; it quickly escalated into an uncontrollable riot and was remembered for years as Evil May-day. The festivities were abruptly brought to an end, the shaft was taken down and returned to its hooks beneath the eaves, never to be erected again.
Thirty two years after the episode, a renowned pulpit-thumping protestant curate of St Katherine Cree held a spell-bound audience at the open-air preaching venue of Paul’s Cross. His theme was idolatry, and in the course of his sermon he enforced that by calling the church of St Andrew, ‘under-the-shaft’, was to say that the church was diminished and that the shaft was made an idol. The cleric persuaded the open-mouthed crowd that for the good of their souls they should return and destroy this confounded pole. ‘Alleluia!’ they all shouted and scurried off to Sunday lunch. That same afternoon, armed with saws and axes, the crowd gathered on the corner of St Mary Axe to begin their act. The shaft was lowered from its hooks and with mighty determination, each one applied his hand. John Stow was there to witness the ceremony and he concludes his account: ‘Thus was this idol mangled, and after burned.’
It is no great coincidence that Stow was on hand at the time; he lived close by, within the parish of St Andrew, and was buried there in 1605. His memorial, paid for by his widow, can be seen at the east end of the north aisle; it depicts the great man seated, as though in a highly decorative hut, at his labours busy inscribing some detail of bygone London. In his hand is a quill, ceremonially replaced by the Lord Mayor at a service held in March or April of each year.
According to Stow the present church was built in 1520 by the parishioners at the expense of Stephen Jennings, Merchant Tailor, and Lord Mayor in 1508. It replaced an earlier church, the first on this site, of about 1300. St Andrew’s was one of the lucky City churches to escaped the clutches of the Great Fire, partly due to a vacant plot of land over which the fire could not leap. The open space proved to be a saving grace – the greedy furnace turned on another course to satisfy its ravenous hunger.
In the course of its long history, St Andrew’s has been administered by a number of notable parish priests later to become bishops: John Russell (died 1494) went on to become bishop of Rochester, John Pricket who took over the diocese of Gloucester in the 16th century, Robert Grove (died 1696) became bishop of Chichester, and William Walsham How (1823-1897) was bishop of Bedford. More recently, Graham Leonard, as Archdeacon of Hampstead was parish priest here between 1962 and 1964. He was consecrated bishop in 1964 and in the same year was appointed suffragan bishop of Willesden. In ???? he was enthroned as bishop of Truro and in 1971 returned to London as diocesan bishop. He retired in May 1991.
Shafts Court of today is not so easily identifiable as it was in those maypole days. There are no houses here now, and to add to the confusion there is no nameplate either. In fact there is only a vague impression of a court at all, it consists of nothing more than a flight of steps running up at the side of the P and O building. Perhaps the best means of identification is the Ship and Turtle public house, built into the base of the office building on the corner of the Court.
Sherbourne Lane EC4
UG: Bank
Bus: 15 521 to Abchurch Lane
25 43 X43 133 501 to King William Street (also any to the Bank)
From Bank Station cross to the south side of King William Street (on the south side of St Mary Woolnoth). Continue along the street, crossing St Swithin’s Lane, for about 75 yds. Sherbourne Lane is then on the right.
City workers will speak of Sherbourne Lane merely as a cut-through between King William Street and Cannon Street. Even their grandfathers would scarcely remember the days when little houses and shops lined its length, for the City financiers took a shine to the area well before the beginning of the 20th century. Now, tall buildings dominate the narrow little lane, dwarfing its very existence, and looking up, these skyward monsters seem to almost bow to each other in a superior grace. It does, however, remain a ‘channel’ and, thank goodness, no attempt has been made to turn it into a main thoroughfare or even a way for vehicles.
John Stow recalls the Lane and says that it originated out of a tributary of Langbourn Water, a stream that at some time emerged in, and ran along the length of Fenchurch Street. In his day, he tells us, the name was Shareboune from a ‘share’ of the main watercourse. Stow also says that in previous years he had seen it as Southbourne Lane, ‘because it ran south to the river Thames.’
Other delvers into the history of London’s street names seem to opt for the somewhat crude, but perhaps more authenticated, derivation of Shiteburn Lane; the place of an open-air convenience. As will be seen in other areas of these pages, the naming of London byways after their common usage was not unknown, and this sometimes stretched to the darn right vulgar. Stinking Lane (now King Edward Street) must have been a filthy old place, and there were Pissing Alley’s by the score. But in a large city, literally crammed with inns and taverns, where else would a man go to relieve himself?
There used to be a narrow passageway near the north end of the Lane known as Plough Alley, it led into St Swithin’s Lane and formed the rear access to the General Post Office. The General Postmaster, who had his house in Sherbourne Lane, would most certainly have used the Alley for passage between home and his office. Thomas Maiden, a printer, lived in a house near to St Mary Abchurch. He was a fervent campaigner and in 1798 he protested to the parish officers of St Swithin’s church concerning their decision to remove the historic London Stone ‘because it was a nuisance’. His claim was that it should be preserved and returned to its place against the church wall. Maiden won his case and the Stone was replaced in the south wall of the church, but St Swithin’s was destroyed by bombs in 1940 and the Stone was rehoused in the Guildhall Museum. The Bank of China now occupies the site of the church and the Stone has since been returned to near its original spot, set into the wall of the bank.
Ship Tavern Passage EC3
UG: Monument
Bus: 40 25 100 D1 D11
From Monument Station cross via the underpass to Eastcheap (north side). Walk east and turn into Philpot Lane. At the end of Philpot Lane cross Fenchurch Street and continue into Lime Street. Ship Tavern Passage is about 45 yds on the left.
Ever since Dickens roamed the streets of London there has been a Ship Tavern on Lime Street. He doubtless was a frequent caller – or so the management would probably claim; but then we all know that Dickens policy was nightly to visit every tavern in the City of London. Here at the Ship they don’t see many tourists – a constant flow of white collar workers keep the wheels grinding – and so they keep such attractions under their hats.
Ship Tavern Passage, like its name sake pub, is not really a sparkling gem in this corner of the Metropolis, so abundantly rich in treasured byways. In fact, entering the Passage from Lime Street is something of gross turn-off, sending out all the encouragement to retrace ones steps and seek consolation elsewhere. Its covered opening, only yards from Leadenhall Market, is no great monument to either antiquity or beauty, and where the Passage becomes exposed to the elements, the rays of sunlight do little to brighten the way.
Without entering into the realms of fantasy it is easy to imagine that at one time this was a bustling place. With lunchtime shoppers overspilling from the market, only strides away, we must wonder, how could it fail? – But it did. The little shops have long since closed and all are boarded up; a sight closely reminiscent of poverty stricken dilapidation. City workers pass by with heads down, scurrying to and from offices around Gracechurch Street – there is nothing to detain them.
Approaching Gracechurch Street the Passage once again becomes covered and here, on the north side, is one of the City’s minute gems – the tiny Swan Tavern. With barely room to stand it must be a contender for the smallest bar in London. There are no plush wall to wall carpets here, nothing but bare stone flag floors and behind the bar the wall is of rough brick. For the customer, a princely four feet between counter and outside wall. In this place there is no pushing and jostling to get to the bar – if you are inside, you are standing at it. Tables are out of the question, there is just no available space. The Swan is a pub that must be seen to be believed, but be warned, it is no use requesting a gin and tonic or a whisky and soda, the ground floor bar dispenses ale only. However, a full service is available in the rather more swish upstairs bar.
At the Lime Street end of the Passage there stood, until 1878, the church of St Dionis Backchurch, so appended because it was at the back of Fenchurch Street. Probably first established in the early 13th century and rebuilt during the mid-15th century, St Dionis was burnt down on Monday 3rd September 1666. It was rebuilt in 1674 by Sir Christopher Wren and demolished just over 200 years later, in 1878, when the parish was amalgamated with that of Allhallows, Lombard Street. Part of the proceeds from the sale of the site were donated to the building of a new church of St Dionis in 1885 at Parsons Green.
Shipwright Yard SE1
Bermondsey Street. UG: London Bridge
Bus: 47 P11 or any to London Bridge station
Off the south side of Tooley Street a few yards east of Hay’s Gallaria and just west of
Ship building on the Thames has never been one of London’s major industries and what small-scale works there were usually occupied locations down stream of Tower Bridge. Small private companies such as W N Sparks and Son of Wapping who built and repaired wooden barges, and the firm of Etheredge’s, barge repairers, also of Wapping. Further down stream at Felstead Wharf were the ship joiners, J Gregson and Company, but these and a handful of other small-time repairers made up the entire compliment of London’s ship building concerns.
No evidence exists of a ship builders occupying the location of Shipwright Yard, but in times gone by, before the long line of wharfs sprung up and segregated the water side from St Olave’s Street (corrupted to Tooley Street), it is possible that ships were turned out here.
The Shipwright Arms, at number 88 Tooley Street stands hard by the Yard, a cul-de-sac which in its short length leads up to the railway arches supporting the tracks into London Bridge Station. On the west side of the Yard is the dirty black building bearing the name ‘South-east Railway Offices’ but, of course, they too have long gone.
Smith’s Court W1
UG: Piccadilly Circus
Bus: Any to Piccadilly Circus
Leave Piccadilly Circus via Shaftsbury Avenue and turn into Gt Windmill Street. Pass Archer Street on the right. Smith’s Court is then about 25 yds on the left.
Nothing is really known of Mr Smith who apparently once owned houses here. They say he was a recluse and it is not really surprising that he preferred to remain in obscurity when we note the proliferation of revue bars, peep shows and sex shops around his Court. In fact this entire area is swamped with them – hidden away from the prudish main thoroughfares, narrow byways are ideal locations for siting this type of ‘entertainment’. Only a stones throw away, Walker’s Court, Green’s Court and Tisbury Court are tingling with the tramping of male feet eager to step over the threshold. A lonesome gent sauntering about these courts can only be about one form of business – and it aint selling walking sticks to old ladies.
Despite all this frolicking amusement around and about, Smith’s Court is not a happy place. Its drab appearance and uneven paving make it one of the less attractive courts in the Soho collection – but then it all depends how we as individuals define attractive.
South Yard EC2
UG: Moorgate
Bus: 21 43 76 133 141 172 214 271
From Moorgate Station walk north along Moorgate and turn left into Ropemaker Street. At the end continue across Moor Lane into Milton Court. At the end of Milton Court turn right into Milton Street. South Yard is about 40 yds on the left, just before Chiswell Street.
The dozens of street names in London prefixed with the four main points of the compass commonly denote that they were, or still are, located north, south, east or west of some dominant or principal site. Although they are mostly the result of an unimaginative period of street naming they were chosen for informative purposes rather than their novelty value.
South Yard has been here since at least the mid 16th century and originally formed an open space for stabling and carriage parking for the occupants of buildings lining the south side of Chiswell Street. It would probably have been gated and inaccessible in those days and this situation remains the same in our own time. At its entrance, the short passageway giving access to the Yard has at its entrance a modern brick archway and beneath, the upwardly sloping cobbled path leads to a permanently locked wrought-iron gate, If allowed to proceed beyond this barrier the way would bring you into the yard of Whitbread Brewery. The brewery is now an administrative centre – brewing ceased on this site many years ago.
Spital Yard E1
UG: Liverpool Street
Bus: 5 8 26 35 43 47 48 78 149
Leave Liverpool Street Station and walk north along the east side of Bishopsgate. Cross Middlesex Street, Artillery Lane, Bushfield Street, then in about 240 yds turn right into Spital Square. Spital Yard is a few yds on the right.
All was quiet and peaceful in this out of town repose with its luscious green fields, providing ideal recreation grounds for the City dwellers. But things started to change when Walter Brune and his wife Rosia appeared on the scene in 1197 and decided to build a church and hospital on the treasured site for the convenience of poor people. It was named St Mary’s and by all accounts was a large place for the time, providing well furnished facilities and beds for 180 and possibly more. The hospital was administered by the Canons Regular of the Order of St Augustin and a supply of helpers brought in to carry out nursing duties and other tasks.
St Mary’s continued to supply a service for the needy of the district until Henry VIII had his barney with the Pope, drove out the Canons and closed the place. At some time during the second half of the 16th century the building was pulled down and the site saturated with ‘many fair houses built for receipt and lodging of worshipful persons.’ (Stow). Adjoining the hospital was a burial ground, now forming Spital Square, and in the north east corner was the open air pulpit known as Spital Cross. By an age old tradition, in the afternoon of Good Friday each year, appointed clerics would preach in violet robes at Paul’s Cross and in the mornings of the three days following Easter Day, in scarlet robes at Spital Cross. These events were not of the Sunday morning Hyde Park gatherings; free and easy, shout as loud as you can type, but rather more formal meetings attended by the bishop, the Lord Mayor, Aldermen, and orderly citizens. After many years the weather beaten old pulpit was replaced and the sermons continued to take place well after the area was built up with houses. Delivery of the ‘Spital Sermon’ is continued to this day, but the venue now is St Mary Woolnoth.
Today, when we hear mention of Spitalfields there is one thing that springs to mind – the Market. As long ago as the 16th century the roads around the ‘fields’ were alive with traders shouting the most recent bargains of fruit, vegetables, and poultry from their stalls. Businesses thrived but the effects of the Great Fire compelled the City officials to adopt new policies on fire prevention and street markets were threatened with extinction. They were seen as presenting too much of a risk and their very presence was thought of as a hindrance to fire fighting. A number of fruitless attempts were made to abolish street trading until it was made illegal by an Act of Parliament in 1674. However, vigorous protesting from traders forced the authorities to review their decision. It quickly became apparent that the solution lay in the building of brick or stone enclosures and by 1680 a number of indoor markets were already up and running. Spitalfields Market was established under a charter granted by Charles II in 1682 – it was open for business on Thursdays and Saturdays of each week and very soon cultivated a reputation for fresh meat and poultry.
During the early 18th century the market building was destroyed by fire and for almost 200 years the Spitalfields traders functioned from temporary stalls and wooden huts. It was not until December 1928 that a new permanent hall was ceremonially opened by Queen Mary and named the London Fruit Exchange. The combined buildings of the fruit and vegetable market and the flower market covered seven acres and formed the largest wholesale outlet of its kind in the world. Spitalfields enjoyed an unrivalled reputation for its amazing selection of exotic foods, brought in fresh every day by lorries from various continental locations. By one o’clock in the morning the market was in full swing with the hustle and bustle of traders, restaurateurs, hoteliers, and greengrocers among the nightly customers. It handled over one and a half thousand tons of produce every day and with an annual turnover in excess of 300 million pounds was second only to Covent Garden.
The area of Spitalfields has been under the threat of redevelopment for a good number of years, and now that threat has become reality. On the 10th May 1991 the stall holders of Spitalfilds pulled down the shutters of the old market for the last time and the end of an era spanning over 300 years came to an end. Some of the old hands, unable or unwilling to accept change, have called it a day and gracefully gone into retirement, others, some reluctantly, have transferred business to the brand new market hall at Temple Mills in north-east London. In the meantime the old market building is being used by stall holders, in all making up an extensive craft fare.
Here, at the end of Spital Yard, the mother of John Wesley, Suzanna Annesley, was born on the 20th January 1669. She was the daughter of Dr Annesley, vicar of St Giles, Cripplegate in the 1650’s – he was dismissed from the living for misconduct and retired to Spital Square. Suzanna was the youngest of 25 children born to Mrs Annesley and herself was the mother of 19. It seems that in most ways she was a tolerant women but one of the things she could not stand was crying children. She would regularly beat the little mites in an effort to teach them to cry without making a sound. All of her children could, without faltering, recite the alphabet from a very early age; in turn she gave each of them one day only to learn it to perfection.
Until very recently there used to be a Post Office on the site between the Yard and Bishopsgate but this has been demolished and at the time of writing it has been replaced by a building contractors portable office. Only the south and west sides of the Yard are currently standing and, as yet, the cobblestone paving is untouched.
As an abbreviation of hospital, spital was in regular use in medieval times and the term continued to have its place in the common vocabulary certainly until the end of the 18th century. In his dictionary, Johnson defines spittal as a charitable foundation.
See also Nantes Passage.
Stable Yard SW1
UG: Green Park
Bus: 8 9 14 19 22 38
Off the north side of The Mall, at the end of Stable Yard Road between Clarence House and Lancaster House. About 300 yds north east of Buckingham Palace.
The buildings here, believed to have been built by Nicholas Hawkesmoor in the early 18th century, are of red and yellow brick.
This is a private road, which is open to pedestrians only. It leads to the main entrance of Clarence House, the home of Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother. It is also the access road to Lancaster House, built by Benjamin Wyatt for the Grand Old Duke of York, although the Duke died before its completion. The house is only occasionally open to the public, when not in use.
Star Yard WC2
UG: Chancery Lane
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76 171A
From the east side of the Law Courts turn into Bell Yard. Continue to the end and Star Yard is directly opposite on the north side of Carey Street.
Originally forming an open space by the side of the Bishop of Chichester’s house, this Yard was directly connected to Bell Yard, before Carey Street was formerly laid out across Little Lincoln’s Inn Fields in about 1660. At that time it was nameless and only came to be known as Star Yard in about 1750 through the presence of the Starr Tavern which stood in Bell Yard. Its only possession in the way of antiquated relics is an old decorative iron structure, situated a little way up on the western side, which was once a gentlemen’s toilet. Similar designs were a common sight in London’s streets during the last century – this specimen has been out of use for many years and is now padlocked.
About half way along the passage, on the east side, near to the work room of Ede and Ravenscroft, academic, clerical, and legal robe makers, is Chichester Rents, a redeveloped paved thoroughfare incorporating a variety of neat shops. There is a Bistro with tables out in the court, a hairdresser, a florist, a key cutting specialist, a supplier of leather goods and a dedicated pen shop.
At the northern end of Star Yard is Bishop’s Court where a wooden gate in the west wall gives access to a little garden. Fixed to the gate is a notice which reads: ‘This is a private path. Members of the public use it only with the consent of the Honourable Society of Lincoln’s Inn.’ The garden too is private and has no seating, but together with the old houses along the path it is nevertheless very pleasant. High on a wall of adjacent Hardwick Buildings is an ancient warning: ‘This wall is built upon the ground of Lincoln’s Inn. No windorers are to be broken out Without 1693 Leave.’
A high ornamental gateway leads from the garden out into New Square, a large quadrangle with a central grassed area, trees, and surrounding houses. It was completed by Henry Serle in 1697 for his private use. He eventually let the houses to law students and later the whole complex was taken over by the Society of Lincoln’s Inn – they are now the chambers of barristers. On the south side of the Square an arched gateway gives access to Carey Street.
Star Alley EC3
UG: Tower Hill
Bus: 40 100 D11 to Fenchurch Street Station
15 25 100 D1 to Tower Hill
From Tower Hill Station turn into Trinity Square and in the NW corner walk up Savage Gardens. Turn left into Pepys Street and at the end turn right into Seething Lane. At the end of Seething Lane, by the church, turn left into Hart Street and at the end turn right into Mark Lane. Pass Dunster Court on left. Star Alley is about 35 yds on the left.
Astronomical emblems have been the selected pickings for inn signs ever since pub names came into existence. Of all these, the ‘star’ has probably been the most popular, commemorating the ancient days when three wise men trekked across the desert in search of the incarnate Son of God. There was undoubtedly a Star tavern near to this site many years ago but it had disappeared by the 18th century. It may have been replaced by the Horseshoe and Magpie which appeared here about the mid-18th century but that too was removed from the scene in 1840.
By far, the most notable contender for fame on this site was the King’s Head. It was to this tavern, on the 10th May 1554, that Princess Elizabeth soberly walked after first attending the church of All Hallows Staining to give thanks for her release from the Tower. On the menu that day there would probably have been roasts of various kinds, boiled chicken or duck, and a selection of pies, but the Queen chose a hearty helping of pork and peas. The platter from which she feasted used to be on display at the tavern but was removed some years ago for safe keeping. When Elizabeth was crowned in 1558, the tavern was renamed the Queen’s Head to mark the honourable occasion of her visit, but on being rebuilt in 1878 someone saw fit to change it to the London Tavern. It may still have been here today, serving perhaps a somewhat changed menu, but bombs in 1942 put an end to all that.
Attractions in Star Alley today, save that of its antiquated associations, are few. Alongside is still the church of St Olave, Hart Street, and in the churchyard a solitary gravestone remains, protected by iron railings. The Alley still retains a degree of quaintness in its narrow passage and covered opening into Fenchurch Street.
Stationers’ Hall Court EC4
UG: St Paul’s
Bus: 4 11 15 17 23 26 76 172
From St Paul’s Cathedral walk down the north side of Ludgate Hill, crossing Ave Maria Lane. Continue for about 30 yds where the Court is on the right.
statione.jpg (18154 bytes)Branching from Ludgate Hill, a short passageway soon opens out into a sizeable square where on the left is Stationers’ Hall, the home of the Stationers’ Company, founded in 1403. In 1556 they were incorporated with the Society of Textwriters, with their first hall established in Milk Street, off Cheapside and in 1563 they moved to St Peter’s College in Dean’s Court, on the west side of St Paul’s Cathedral. Their first purpose built hall materialised in 1606 when they purchased the London home of Lord Abergavenny, which stood on the site of the present Hall. The Stationers’ demolished his Lordship’s house and in its place erected a wooden structure which sixty years later was completely destroyed in the Great Fire. It is estimated that the value of the books lost in the burning of the Hall was in the region of £200,000. In 1670 Sir Christopher Wren was commissioned to design the replacement hall which still occupies the site, although the Portland stone facing was added by the Company’s architect, Robert Mylne in 1805. World War II left the roof of the Stationers’ Hall severely damaged and the decorative ceiling devastated, but skilful craftsmanship has since restored it to the original design.
The Stationers’ Company was originally established to oversee the stationery, printing and publishing and bookbinding trades and until quite recently it was the tradition for liverymen of the Company to carry on the business of publishing at Stationers’ Hall. A proportion of the profits realised were usually distributed annually between colleagues who had fallen on hard times, and sundry expenses incurred by the Company.
Copyright registration was established by the Company in 1557 and primarily concerned the printing of copies following the death of an author. It was not until 1662 that a committee of the House of Commons passed a bill requiring all works printed in Britain to be registered at Stationers’ Hall. This Act expired in 1681 and was superseded by a bill of 1710 stating that all works must be registered prior to their publication. An amendment to the bill in 1842 introduced the right of authors to protect their work from infringement by legal action. That Act remained in force until the passing of the Copyright Act of 1911 when it became unnecessary to register a work for protection against infringement.
On the east side of the Court there is an access into Ave Maria Lane.
Stonehouse Court EC2
UG: Liverpool Street
Bus: 5 8 26 35 42 43 47 48 78 100 149
From Liverpool Street Station cross to the east side of Bishopsgate. Turn left into Houndsditch and Stonehouse Court is about 35 yds on the left.
stonehs.jpg (15416 bytes)At number 136 Bishopsgate is the office block named ‘Stone House’, built in 1927. It stands on the site of a 13th century stone building owned by the Augustinian Friars who had become established at Holy Trinity, Aldgate (St Katherine Cree), St Bartholomew at Smithfield, St John of Jerusalem (Clerkenwell), and various other location around London. This building was known in the locality as ‘the stone house’.
Right up to the time of the Great Fire the common material for house building was wood, which formed the main framework. Woven twigs or laths were fixed between the sturdy timbers and slapped over with wattle and daub, a mixture of dung and clay bound together with water. With the problems of transportation, stone was not readily available to the average working man and when it was, the cost was astronomically high so that only the very wealthy could afford it. The most frequent sources in London were fallen down parts of the Roman wall or remnants from City gate repairs. In 1608 the Earl of Salisbury imported stone from a demolished gate of the City of Canterbury for alterations to his house.
Because houses built of stone were so uncommon it was quite the normal means of identification to individually refer to them as ‘the stone house’. There would usually be no more than a single stone built house in any one locality so the question of confused identity did not arise. John Stow came across a selection of stone houses on his travels around London and recorded their locations in his survey.
Naturally, fire was a real concern for the authorities and residents alike. Minor fires, destroying the odd house here and there, were every day occurrences. They were no crowd-drawing spectacles of entertainment, people glanced and passed on their way. Samuel Pepys tells of his own, but typical response on seeing a fire. When one of his maids aroused him on the morning of 2nd September 1666 to see a great fire burning a few streets away, he looked out of his window, shrugged his shoulders and went back to bed. Only when his maid informed him, four hours later that she had heard that over 300 houses had been burnt down did he put on his coat and go and have a look.
Governments down the centuries had been trying to enforce regulations to build of stone in an effort to reduce the risk of fire, but the cost was beyond the means of most people. Following a series of widespread fires in the early 12th century and in particular of 1132, 1135 and 1136 the City authorities increased pressure on the citizens to build their houses of fire-safe materials. However, it was not until London’s first Mayor, Henry Fitzaylwin, drew up the first set of comprehensive regulations in about 1200 that the City of London saw an increase in stone built houses. Even so, it took the Great Fire to turn the minds of people towards real fire prevention.
Stonehouse Court remains as a memorial to the rugged fortress that dominated the skyline round here in those bygone days, but standing on the corner of the Court in Houndsditch now is another fortress, that of Barkers, the jewellers, complete with the three-ball hanging sign of the pawnbroker. Just outside this shop and spanning the entrance to the Court a large overhead sign leaves no one in any shadow of doubt regarding its name – it is not difficult to miss. Just beyond the sign, a little way into the Court, the Stamp Bureaux occupies an almost quaint little spot, and then rounding a bend we find ourselves in Cavendish Court.
Strand Lane WC2
UG: Temple
Bus: 6 9 11 13 15 23 91 176
From Temple Station walk west along the north side of Victoria Embankment and turn right into Temple Place. Turn left into Surrey Street and continue for about 70 yds. Turn left through an iron gated archway and down the steps into Strand Lane.
‘Then had ye in the high street a fair bridge called Strand bridge, and under it a lane or way down to the landing-place on the bank of Thames.’ If John Stow had toddled this way a few years earlier he would not have found a lane passing beneath Strand Bridge, but a stream of sparkling water. However, by 1598 its course had been stopped up and diverted to supplement the supply at Clement’s Well, so that the old channel running down to the Thames had dried out.
Until quite recently Strand Lane used to be a pleasant old walkway which lead from Temple Place on a steep gradient towards the Strand. Unfortunately both ends are now blocked off and the only access is via Surrey Steps. At the northern limit over a covered inaccessible passage is the early 19th century watch house of St Clement Danes, with its attractive overhanging wrought-iron balcony, from where it was the duty of the watchman to look out for body stealers in the graveyard. Also featured in this Lane is what is commonly known as the Roman Bath. Belief once owned that the bath was in the home of a Roman officer but now generally accepted that it is not of the Roman period at all but possibly Tudor. About 2000 gallons per day are fed to the 15ft brick built bath via a natural spring. It was in this bath, Dickens tells us, that David Copperfield regularly plunged himself into the ice cold water prior to setting out on his perambulations. The entrance is situated on the east side of the lane below the watch house balcony. A high wall hiding King’s College on the west side was once the only unsightly feature but now the whole lane has taken on a drab appearance.
Sugar Bakers Court EC3
UG: Aldgate
Bus: 5 15 25 42 78 100 B1 D1 D11
Turn left out of Aldgate Station and walk along Aldgate High Street. Cross Houndsditch and then turn right into Mitre Street. Continue to the end of Mitre Street and turn right into Creechurch Lane. Sugar Baker Court is on the right.
In the triangle bounded by Bishopsgate, Bevis Marks, and Leadenhall Street there is a whole treasure of fascinating passages. About the tiniest of these is Sugar Bakers Court, a narrow passage branching from Creechurch Lane between numbers 22 and 24. It is now a dismal place with brick paving and a single post at the entrance bearing the City of London coat of arms. This one time busy little cul-de-sac used to reek with the sweet smelling essence of the bakers craft, but now it reeks of nothing.
The Court stands on part of the site of the cloisters of Holy Trinity Priory, prematurely dissolved and given into the hands of Henry VIII in 1532. In the same year the King gave the Priory and its church to Sir Thomas Audley, Lord Chancellor, who then offered the church to the parishioners, but the Prior had not been a respected man and fearful of having any association with the place, they refused it. Even when Audley offered the stone free of charge to any man that would take it down, there were no volunteers. He then hired labourers and took it down himself, replacing it with buildings annexed to the useful priory and lived there until his death in 1544.
Lord Audley’s only daughter married Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk and the priory, house and grounds then fell into his hands, being named the Duke’s Place. He lived here in grand style, trooping around the City attended by a cavalry of 100 mounted men until he met his end on Tower Hill in 1572. The Duke of Suffolk, descendent of Thomas Howard, afterwards sold the whole estate to the City of London who flattened the site and built the street layout that is still evident today.
The whole of this triangle miraculously escaped the Fire of 1666 and so, when most of the City was suffering the aftermath, it was a much sought after area. About this time a gathering of sugar bakers appear to have set up business here and were well established by 1677 when the place first appeared as Sugar Bakers Yard. It was not until 1912 that it was changed to Court.
A sugar baker was the equivalent of a present day confectioner – a baker of sugary things. There is a story that tells of an 18th century sugar baker who once moved his business from this Court (or Yard) to a convenient location in Ludgate Hill. From there he could look out of his window and model wedding cakes on the spire of St Bride’s church.
Sugar Loaf Court EC4
UG: Mansion House
Bus: 4 11 15 17 23 26 76 172
From Mansion House Station (Cannon Street south side) walk down Garlick Hill and turn into Little Trinity Lane. The Court is just on the right.
In bygone days, before sugar was granulated it was sold in conical shaped blocks. The procedure for preparing these blocks included boiling up the syrup extracted from the cane, pouring it into moulds and leaving the substance to solidify. These ‘loaves’ were fine for the manufacturing confectioners but a little cumbersome for household purposes, and so for convenience and ease of use those ‘loaves’ destined for the retail trade were usually broken into smaller size pieces; the end product was then called loaf sugar. One such refinery for handling the process occupied the site of Sugar Loaf Court; in fact there were many sugar refineries dotted about the little lanes to the south of Cannon Street. The Crown and Sugar Loaf public house, on the corner of the Court, possibly stands on the site of the refinery.
Almost directly across the road in Garlick Hill is the church of St James, Garlickhythe, so called of the garlick sellers who inhabited the area. The first church on this site dates back to 1170 and although there is little record of its early history we do know that restoration was commenced in 1326 by Richard de Rothing, a sheriff of London in that year. Unfortunately he died before the work was completed and was laid to rest in the old church. Some years later his son, John, acknowledged the unfinished task and made provision in his will for the precise purpose of completing repairs to the north side and reconstructing the bell tower.
St James’s was totally destroyed in the Great Fire and rebuilt by Wren between 1676 and 1683 incorporating a steeple reminiscent of the one at St Stephen, Walbrook. Further devastation caused by an unexploded bomb in World War II resulted in the church being closed, awaiting renovation, for nearly ten years. But that was not the end of St James’s problems. At 7.30 on the morning of the 20th September 1991 a 100-foot construction crane working on a ten storey office development collapsed and crashed through the roof causing unbelievable damage. A £75,000 crystal chandelier was released from its suspension chains and sent hurtling to the floor; many of the old pews, put in at the time of Wren’s rebuilding, were ruined by the gigantic slicing boom. Damage was considered to be comparable to that caused by the 1941 bomb and the estimated cost of repairs to be in excess of one million pounds. Had the collapse occurred only an hour later numerous people could have been injured but miraculously the only casualty was the crane operator who managed to jump clear at the last minute. This disaster occurred only months after the completion of a £250,000 restoration programme. Repairs are now complete and the area of damage can only be detected by the newness of the brickwork.
Behind a cupboard door in the vestibule is the mummified body of a man, thought to be a notable medieval dignitary. His body was placed there after being retrieved from beneath the altar.
Sun Court EC3
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to Bank
Off the north side of Cornhill, approx 240 yds east of Bank Station, about 80 yds east of Finch Lane, about 50 yds west of Gracechurch Street.
The impressive square white stone facia at the entrance to the Court surrounds the short covered way, which terminates in a cul-de-sac. Here are the offices of Donaldsons, Property Managers, and sundry other private companies.
Before the mid-19th century this was a far more socially attractive Court than it is today. Until that time one of the little pleasures of Cornhill stood here – the Sun tavern, with the Court running along side. Of course, in those days Cornhill was no different than any other main thoroughfare in the City and featured as complete a selection of taverns as could be found anywhere. But the Sun was different, it was the locals haunt, used by those who lived in the byways of Cornhill, while most of the other taverns were the wheeling and dealing venues for traders and the like. Here a man could retire from his daily toil and relax with his chums in comforts probably much butter than his own home. Very much like the out-of-town local of today.
Sun Street Passage EC2
UG: Liverpool Street
Bus: 11 23 42 100 133 141 172 214 271
Off the north side of Liverpool Street. From the Main Line Station concourse take the escalator signed Liverpool Street and Buses.
Sun Street, of which this Passage was a tributary, originally ran west from Bishopsgate to link up with Finsbury Square. The Street was partly obliterated by the building of Liverpool Street Station in 1874 and now only the western section survives, terminating on the west side of the old Broad Street Station. For 200 years the Sun tavern which gave its name to the Street stood on Bishopsgate, about opposite to Bushfield Street but that was pulled down prior to commencement of work on the Liverpool Street Station. During this programme of redevelopment, Sun Street Passage was considerably widened into the proportions likened to a main thoroughfare. Lying along side the main line station the Passage now incorporates the stops for buses terminating at, and starting from, Liverpool Street.
The alleyways and courtyards of London
This page is taken from Ivor Hoole’s defunct GeoCities site listing the alleys and courtyards in Central London, last updated in 2004 and now taken offline.
The Underground Map blog lists this information as is, with no claim of copyright.