Shirland Road, W9

Road in/near Maida Hill, existing between 1869 and now

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Road · Maida Hill · W9 ·
September
18
2021
Shirland Road is one of the main thorughfares of Maida Vale.

Before the turn of the nineteenth century, the area was largely covered in pasture meadows. Through these fields ran the River Westbourne (sometimes called Bays Water).

East of the Westbourne, the land belonged to the Bishop of London. Most of the parish west of the Westbourne was Westminster Abbey’s Westbourne manor. Part of the future Queen’s Park belonged to All Souls’ College, Oxford.

The opening of the Paddington Branch of the Grand Union (Grand Junction) Canal in 1801 led to the first villas being built on Hill House Fields, the highest part of Paddington. But even in the 1820s, apart from a row of houses at Orme’s Green on the Harrow Road, the area remained open countryside.

In the late 1850s the River Westbourne was culverted which allowed building to spread northward from Westbourne Green during the 1860s.

By 1865 the name St Peter’s Park, commemorating landowner Westminster Abbey, was given to a proposed suburb north of Harrow Road. Avenues leading from Harrow Road were planned: Malvern Road (soon renamed Chippenham Road), St Peter’s Road (renamed Walterton Road) and the southernmost stretch of the future Fernhead Road.

By 1869 there were houses along much of Chippenham Road and at the west end of Elgin Road, where St Peter’s church had been allotted a site, and the west ends of Marylands Road and Sutherland Gardens.

All three roads led towards Shirland Road, which approximately followed the line of the Bayswater or Westbourne stream. There were houses on the west side of Shirland Road, at the south end, by 1870.

The building of St Peter’s Park was a risky enterprise neccesitating the construction of sewers as well as a bridge over the canal (Carlton Bridge). A quarter of the builders of the estate failed between 1870 and 1872. Building activity revived in the mid 1870s and the Walterton estate was completed in 1885.

34 more houses were planned in 1881 in Shirland Road, between Elgin Road and Kilburn Park Road, where the eight most northerly ones could be built as shops.

The area enclosed by Shirland Road, Kilburn Park Road, Portsdown Road and Sutherland Avenue was still empty in 1886, allowing a 26 acre site to be saved for public use as Paddington Recreation Ground.

Subletting of houses led to deterioration throughout the area by the 1890s, although there was little real hardship. In 1901 the area was assigned to the new Metropolitan Borough of Paddington. Between 1918 and 1939 the name St Peter’s Park fell into disuse.

After the Second World War, parts of the area were cleared for municipal housing. In 1953 the London County Council bought the Walterton estate from the Church Commissioners. The LCC inherited an overcrowded estate where many homes lacked basic amenities.

During the 1960s the Greater London Council built tower blocks and low rise blocks on the Elgin Estate. In the early 1970s the sheer volume of derelict homes gave rise to the high profile Elgin Avenue squatting campaign, involving such figures as housing campaigner Piers Corbyn and Joe Strummer of the Clash.

In 1980 ownership of the area transferred from the GLC to Westminster City Council. In 1985 WCC decided to sell off the estates to private developers.

Residents responded by forming the Walterton and Elgin Action Group (WECH), organising protests, petitions and their own plan to save the homes of local people in need of rented housing. By the middle of 1988 one third of Walterton Estate homes were empty - Hermes Point and Chantry Point were heavily squatted.

In 1992 residents took over ownership and control of 921 homes. After negotiating funding from WCC, WECH rebuilt and refurbished properties that had suffered years of neglect. Two tower blocks were demolished and replaced with low rise homes.




Main source: Maida Hill Forum
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CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE LOCALITY



Roy Batham   
Added: 7 Jan 2022 05:50 GMT   

Batham Family (1851 - 1921)
I start with William Batham 1786-1852 born in St.Martins Middlesex. From various sources I have found snippets of information concerning his early life. A soldier in 1814 he married Mary Champelovier of Huguenot descent By 1819 they were in Kensington where they raised 10 children. Apart from soldier his other occupations include whitesmith, bell hanger and pig breeder. I find my first record in the 1851 English sensus. No street address is given, just ’The Potteries’. He died 1853. Only one child at home then George Batham 1839-1923, my great grandfather. By 1861 he is living in Thomas St. Kensington with his mother. A bricklayer by trade 1871, married and still in Thomas St. 1881 finds him in 5,Martin St. Kensington. 1891 10,Manchester St. 1911, 44 Hunt St Hammersmith. Lastly 1921 Census 7, Mersey St. which has since been demolished.

Source: Batham/Wiseman - Family Tree

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Lived here
Tom Vague   
Added: 9 Sep 2020 14:02 GMT   

The Bedford family at 3 Acklam Road (1860 - 1965)
From the 19th century up until 1965, number 3 Acklam Road, near the Portobello Road junction, was occupied by the Bedford family.

When the Westway construction work began the Bedfords sold up and moved to south London. In the early 1970s the house was taken over by the North Kensington Amenity Trust and became the Notting Hill Carnival office before its eventual demolition.

Anne Bedford (now McSweeney) has fond memories of living there, although she recalls: ’I now know that the conditions were far from ideal but then I knew no different. There was no running hot water, inside toilet or bath, apart from the tin bath we used once a week in the large kitchen/dining room. Any hot water needed was heated in a kettle. I wasn’t aware that there were people not far away who were a lot worse off than us, living in poverty in houses just like mine but families renting one room. We did have a toilet/bathroom installed in 1959, which was ’luxury’.

’When the plans for the Westway were coming to light, we were still living in the house whilst all the houses opposite became empty and boarded up one by one. We watched all this going on and decided that it was not going to be a good place to be once the builders moved in to demolish all the houses and start work on the elevated road. Dad sold the house for a fraction of what it should have been worth but it needed too much doing to it to bring it to a good living standard. We were not rich by any means but we were not poor. My grandmother used to do her washing in the basement once a week by lighting a fire in a big concrete copper to heat the water, which would have been there until demolition.

’When we moved from number 3, I remember the upright piano that my grandparents used to play - and me of sorts - being lowered out of the top floor and taken away, presumably to be sold. I used to play with balls up on the wall of the chemist shop on the corner of Acklam and Portobello. We would mark numbers on the pavement slabs in a grid and play hopscotch. At the Portobello corner, on one side there was the Duke of Sussex pub, on the other corner, a chemist, later owned by a Mr Fish, which I thought was amusing. When I was very young I remember every evening a man peddling along Acklam Road with a long thin stick with which he lit the streetlights.’ Michelle Active who lived at number 33 remembers: ’6 of us lived in a one-bed basement flat on Acklam Road. When they demolished it we moved to a 4-bed maisonette on Silchester Estate and I thought it was a palace, two toilets inside, a separate bathroom that was not in the kitchen, absolute heaven.’



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Lived here
Brenda Jackson   
Added: 13 Aug 2017 21:39 GMT   

83 Pembroke Road
My Gt Gt grandparents lived at 83 Pembroke Road before it became Granville Road, They were married in 1874, John Tarrant and Maryann Tarrant nee Williamson.

Her brother George Samuel Williamson lived at 95 Pembroke Road with his wife Emily and children in the 1881 Census

Apparently the extended family also lived for many years in Alpha Place, Canterbury Road, Peel Road,

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Comment
Fumblina   
Added: 27 Mar 2021 11:13 GMT   

St Jude’s Church, Lancefield Street
Saint Jude’s was constructed in 1878, while the parish was assigned in 1879 from the parish of Saint John, Kensal Green (P87/JNE2). The parish was united with the parishes of Saint Luke (P87/LUK1) and Saint Simon (P87/SIM) in 1952. The church was used as a chapel of ease for a few years, but in 1959 it was closed and later demolished.

The church is visible on the 1900 map for the street on the right hand side above the junction with Mozart Street.

Source: SAINT JUDE, KENSAL GREEN: LANCEFIELD STREET, WESTMINSTER | Londo

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The Underground Map   
Added: 24 Nov 2020 14:25 GMT   

The 1879 Agricultural Show
The 1879 Royal Agricultural Society of England’s annual show was held on an area which later became Queen’s Park and opened on 30 June 1879.

The show ran for a week but the poor weather meant people had to struggle through deep mud and attendances fell disastrously. The visit to the show by Queen Victoria on the fifth day rallied visitors and nearly half the people who visited the show went on that day.

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Comment
Fumblina   
Added: 27 Mar 2021 11:08 GMT   

Wedding at St Jude’s Church
On 9th November 1884 Charles Selby and Johanna Hanlon got married in St Jude’s Church on Lancefield Street. They lived together close by at 103 Lancefield Street.
Charles was a Lather, so worked in construction. He was only 21 but was already a widower.
Johanna is not shown as having a profession but this is common in the records and elsewhere she is shown as being an Ironer or a Laundress. It is possible that she worked at the large laundry shown at the top of Lancefield Road on the 1900 map. She was also 21. She was not literate as her signature on the record is a cross.
The ceremony was carried out by William Hugh Wood and was witnessed by Charles H Hudson and Caroline Hudson.

Source: https://www.ancestry.co.uk/imageviewer/collections/1623/images/31280_197456-00100?pId=6694792

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The Underground Map   
Added: 8 Mar 2021 14:30 GMT   

Kilburn Park - opened 1915
Kilburn Park station was opened at the height of the First World War

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PETER FAIRCLOUGH   
Added: 10 May 2021 14:46 GMT   

We once lived here
My family resided at number 53 Brindley Street Paddington.
My grandparents George and Elizabeth Jenkinson (ne Fowler) had four children with my Mother Olive Fairclough (ne Jenkinson) being born in the house on 30/09/1935.
She died on 29/04/2021 aged 85 being the last surviving of the four siblings

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Lived here
David Jones-Parry   
Added: 7 Sep 2017 12:13 GMT   

Mcgregor Road, W11 (1938 - 1957)
I was born n bred at 25 Mc Gregor Rd in 1938 and lived there until I joined the Royal Navy in 1957. It was a very interesting time what with air raid shelters,bombed houses,water tanks all sorts of areas for little boys to collect scrap and sell them on.no questions asked.A very happy boyhood -from there we could visit most areas of London by bus and tube and we did.

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Dave Fahey   
Added: 6 Jan 2021 02:40 GMT   

Bombing of the Jack O Newberry
My maternal grandfather, Archie Greatorex, was the licensee of the Earl of Warwick during the Second World War. My late mother Vera often told the story of the bombing of the Jack. The morning after the pub was bombed, the landlord’s son appeared at the Warwick with the pub’s till on an old pram; he asked my grandfather to pay the money into the bank for him. The poor soul was obviously in shock. The previous night, his parents had taken their baby down to the pub cellar to shelter from the air raids. The son, my mother never knew his name, opted to stay in his bedroom at the top of the building. He was the only survivor. I often wondered what became of him.

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Lived here
Scott Hatton   
Added: 11 Sep 2020 15:38 GMT   

6 East Row (1960 - 1960)
We lived at 6 East Row just before it was demolished.

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Comment
The Underground Map   
Added: 8 Mar 2021 14:49 GMT   

A bit of a lift....
Kilburn Park was the first station to be designed around escalators, rather than lifts.

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Comment
charlie evans   
Added: 10 Apr 2021 18:51 GMT   

apollo pub 1950s
Ted Lengthorne was the landlord of the apollo in the 1950s. A local called darkie broom who lived at number 5 lancaster road used to be the potman,I remember being in the appollo at a street party that was moved inside the pub because of rain for the queens coronation . Not sure how long the lengthornes had the pub but remember teds daughter julie being landlady in the early 1970,s

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Comment
GRaleigh   
Added: 23 Feb 2021 09:34 GMT   

Found a bug
Hi all! Thank you for your excellent site. I found an overlay bug on the junction of Glengall Road, NW6 and Hazelmere Road, NW6 on the 1950 map only. It appears when one zooms in at this junction and only on the zoom.

Cheers,
Geoff Raleigh

Source: Glengall Road, NW6

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The Underground Map   
Added: 25 Feb 2021 13:11 GMT   

Glengall Road, NW6
Thanks Geoff!

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LATEST LONDON-WIDE CONTRIBUTIONS TO THE PROJECT

Comment
   
Added: 14 Jan 2022 03:06 GMT   

Goldbourne Gardens W 10
I lived in Goldbourne Gardens in the 50,s very happy big bomb site

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Chris Nash   
Added: 10 Jan 2022 22:54 GMT   

Shortlands Close, DA17
Shortlands Close and the flats along it were constructed in the mid-1990s. Prior to this, the area was occupied by semi-detached houses with large gardens, which dated from the post-war period and were built on the site of Railway Farm. The farm and its buildings spanned the length of Abbey Road, on the south side of the North Kent Line railway tracks.

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Roy Batham   
Added: 7 Jan 2022 07:17 GMT   

Smithy in Longacre
John Burris 1802-1848 Listed 1841 census as Burroughs was a blacksmith, address just given as Longacre.

Source: Batham/Wiseman - Family Tree

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Roy Batham   
Added: 7 Jan 2022 05:50 GMT   

Batham Family (1851 - 1921)
I start with William Batham 1786-1852 born in St.Martins Middlesex. From various sources I have found snippets of information concerning his early life. A soldier in 1814 he married Mary Champelovier of Huguenot descent By 1819 they were in Kensington where they raised 10 children. Apart from soldier his other occupations include whitesmith, bell hanger and pig breeder. I find my first record in the 1851 English sensus. No street address is given, just ’The Potteries’. He died 1853. Only one child at home then George Batham 1839-1923, my great grandfather. By 1861 he is living in Thomas St. Kensington with his mother. A bricklayer by trade 1871, married and still in Thomas St. 1881 finds him in 5,Martin St. Kensington. 1891 10,Manchester St. 1911, 44 Hunt St Hammersmith. Lastly 1921 Census 7, Mersey St. which has since been demolished.

Source: Batham/Wiseman - Family Tree

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Born here
sam   
Added: 31 Dec 2021 00:54 GMT   

Burdett Street, SE1
I was on 2nd July 1952, in Burdett chambers (which is also known as Burdett buildings)on Burdett street

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Lived here
John Neill   
Added: 25 Nov 2021 11:30 GMT   

Sandringham Road, E10 (1937 - 1966)
I lived at No. 61 with my parents during these years. I went to Canterbury Road school (now Barclay Primary) and sang as a boy soprano (treble) in the church choir at St Andrew’s church, on the corner of Forest Glade.
Opposite us lived the Burgess family. Their son Russell also sang in my choir as a tenor. He later became a well-known musician and the choirmaster at Wandsworth Boys’ School.
Just at the end of WW2 a German rocket (V2) landed in the grounds of Whipps Cross Hospital, damaging many of the houses in Sandringham Road, including ours.

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Comment
Tim Stevenson   
Added: 16 Nov 2021 18:03 GMT   

Pub still open
The Bohemia survived the 2020/21 lockdowns and is still a thriving local social resource.

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STEPHEN JACKSON   
Added: 14 Nov 2021 17:25 GMT   

Fellows Court, E2
my family moved into the tower block 13th floor (maisonette), in 1967 after our street Lenthall rd e8 was demolished, we were one of the first families in the new block. A number of families from our street were rehoused in this and the adjoining flats. Inside toilet and central heating, all very modern at the time, plus eventually a tarmac football pitch in the grounds,(the cage), with a goal painted by the kids on the brick wall of the railway.

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NEARBY LOCATIONS OF NOTE
Orme’s Green Ormes Green was the former name for this part of Westbourne Park.
The Prince of Wales Cinema The Prince of Wales Cinema was located at 331 Harrow Road.
Westbourne Manor The Manor of Westbourne
Weston’s Cider House In 1930 Weston’s opened their first and only cider mill on the Harrow Road.
Windsor Castle The Windsor Castle dates from the 1820s but its main incarnation was as a classic Victorian public house, seminal in 1970s musical history.

NEARBY STREETS
Abinger Mews, W9 Abinger Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Abourne Street, W9 Before the Second World War, Abourne Street had been called Netley Street.
Aldsworth Close, W9 Aldsworth Close is a pale buff brick terrace.
Amberley Mews, W9 Amberley Mews starred as Tom Riley’s home in the 1950 movie "The Blue Lamp".
Amberley Road, W2 Amberley Road was formerly lined by canalside wharves.
Argo House, NW6 Argo House is a location in London.
Ascot House, W9 Ascot House was built as part of the GLC’s small Windsor estate.
Ashmore Road, W9 Ashmore Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Barnsdale Road, W9 Barnsdale Road runs between Fernhead Road and Walterton Road.
Barnwood Close, W9 Barnwood Close replaced a set of canal-side industrial buildings.
Biddulph Mansions, W9 Biddulph Mansions is a corner block on Elgin Avenue.
Biddulph Road, W9 Biddulph Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Bristol Gardens, W9 Bristol Gardens is an extension southeastwards of Shirland Road.
Burlington Close, W9 Burlington Close is a street in Maida Vale.
Castellain Mansions, W9 Castellain Mansions is a block on Castellain Road.
Castellain Road, W9 Castellain Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Charfield Court, W9 Charfield Court is part of the 1972 Amberley Estate.
Chippenham Gardens, NW6 Street/road in London NW6
Chippenham Mews, W9 Chippenham Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Chippenham Road, W9 Chippenham Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Clearwell Drive, W9 Clearwell Drive is a newer street, roughly built over the line of the former Amberley Mews.
Croxley Road, W9 Croxley Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Delaware Road, W9 Delaware Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Denholme Road, W9 Denholme Road connects Fernhead Road with Saltram Crescent.
Downfield Close, W9 Downfield Close is a street in Maida Vale.
Drayford Close, W9 Drayford Close is a street in Maida Vale.
Edbrooke Road, W9 Edbrooke Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Elgin Avenue, W9 Elgin Avenue was proposed in an 1827 plan for the area by John Gutch.
Elgin Mansions, W9 Elgin Mansions is a block on Elgin Avenue.
Ellwood Court, W9 Ellwood Court is a two-storey block.
Elnathan Mews, W9 Elnathan Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Essendine Mansions, W9 Essendine Mansions is a block on Essendine Road.
Essendine Road, W9 Essendine Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Fernhead Road, W9 Fernhead Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Fordingley Road, W9 Fordingley Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Foscote Mews, W9 This is a street in the W9 postcode area
Godson Yard, NW6 Godson Yard is a new development dating from 2005.
Goldney Road, W9 Goldney Road was built around 1860 on land which was once the property of Westminster Abbey.
Grantully Road, W9 Grantully Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Great Western Road, W9 Great Western Road’s northernmost section was created after a bridge was constructed over the canal.
Grittleton Road, W9 Grittleton Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Harrow Road, W9 Harrow Road is a main road running through Paddington, Willesden and beyond.
Hermes Close, W9 Hermes Close is a street in Maida Vale.
Kilburn Park Road, NW6 Kilburn Park Road was built along the course of the Bayswater Rivulet (the River Westbourne), starting in 1855
Lanhill Road, W9 Lanhill Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Lauderdale Parade, W9 Lauderdale Parade stands on Lauderdale Road.
Lauderdale Road, W9 Lauderdale Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Leith Mansions, W9 Leith Mansions is a street in Maida Vale.
Lydford Road, W9 Lydford Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Macroom Road, W9 Macroom Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Malvern Mews, NW6 Street/road in London NW6
Malvern Mews, NW6 Malvern Mews is a road in the W9 postcode area
Malvern Road, NW6 Street/road in London NW6
Marylands Road, W9 Marylands Road was built by the Neeld family during the 1860s.
Morshead Road, W9 Morshead Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Oakington Road, W9 Oakington Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Pennymore Walk, W9 Pennymore Walk is a close which lies off of Ashmore Road.
Pindock Mews, W9 Pindock Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Riverton Close, W9 Riverton Close is a street in Maida Vale.
Sevington Street, W9 Sevington Street is a street in Maida Vale.
Shirland Mews, W9 Shirland Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Stafford Close, NW6 Street/road in London NW6
Stuart Road, NW6 Street/road in London NW6
Surrendale Place, W9 Surrendale Place is a street in Maida Vale.
Sutherland Avenue, W9 Sutherland Avenue is one of the main streets of Maida Vale.
Thorngate Road, W9 This is a street in the W9 postcode area
Walterton Road, W9 Walterton Road was the central road of a suburb which was originally proposed to called St. Peter’s Park.
Warlock Road, W9 Warlock Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Western Mews, W9 Western Mews is a street in Maida Vale.
Widley Road, W9 Widley Road is a street in Maida Vale.
Windsor Gardens, W9 Windsor Gardens is a street in Maida Vale.
Woodfield Crescent, W9 Woodfield Crescent was a former street in London W9.
Woodfield Place, W9 Woodfield Place is a street in Maida Vale.
Woodfield Road, W9 The first section of Woodfield Road seems to date from the 1830s.
Wymering Mansions, W9 Wymering Mansions is a residential block in Wymering Road.
Wymering Road, W9 Wymering Road runs west from Elgin Avenue.

NEARBY PUBS
Chippenham This pub existed immediately prior to the 2020 global pandemic and may still do so.
Weston’s Cider House In 1930 Weston’s opened their first and only cider mill on the Harrow Road.
Windsor Castle The Windsor Castle dates from the 1820s but its main incarnation was as a classic Victorian public house, seminal in 1970s musical history.


Maida Hill

Maida Hill's name derives from the Hero of Maida inn which used to be on Edgware Road near the Regent's Canal.

The pub was named after General Sir John Stuart who was made Count of Maida by King Ferdinand IV of Naples and Sicily after the victory at the Battle of Maida in 1806. Previously the fields here had been the highest part of Paddington at 120 feet above sea level and called "Hill House Fields".

By 1810 the locality was being marked as ‘Maida’ on maps. The Maida Hill tunnel, begun in 1812, was the first canal tunnel to be built in London and is the second longest. Its route had to be altered to avoid the Portman estate, which had refused passage through its property.

The part of Edgware Road immediately north of the Regent’s Canal was subsequently called Maida Hill, and later Maida Hill East, while modern Little Venice was formerly Maida Hill West. The whole name then migrated west and renamed an area previously known as St Peter’s Park.

Modern Maida Hill is bounded to the north and east by Shirland Road, in the west by Walterton Road with the Regent's Canal to the south.

The name had fallen out of use but, in the mid 2000s, the 414 bus route revived the name as its destination on Shirland Road. Then a new street market on the Piazza at the junction of Elgin Avenue and Harrow Road deened itself in Maida Hill.


LOCAL PHOTOS
Great Western Road (1959)
TUM image id: 1588415018
Licence: CC BY 2.0
Sutherland Avenue, W9
TUM image id: 1453139016
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Tavistock Crescent, W11
TUM image id: 1453294464
Licence: CC BY 2.0
Front Line Tavistock Road
TUM image id: 1453297700
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Westons Cider House
TUM image id: 1453899876
Licence: CC BY 2.0
Youths throwing stones
TUM image id: 1456690171
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In the neighbourhood...

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Mrs Siddons house at Westbourne Green c. 1800
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Bourne Terrace - taken from Torquay Street. On the corner of Bourne Terrace is Saws Ltd at number 264 along with various blocks which no longer exist.
Credit: Bernard Selwwyn
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Cirencester Street, W2 The streets length was curtailed when the Warwick Estate was built.
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Great Western Road (1959)
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Lord Hills Road at the junction with Senior Street
Credit: Historic England
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Barnsdale Road, Paddington lies between Fernhead Road and Walterton Road.
Old London postcard
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Westons Cider House
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91 Fernhead Road, W9 - the birthplace of Norman Wisdom
Credit: City of Westminster
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Amberley Mews - "The Blue Lamp"
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Customers of the Great Western pub, 57 Hampden Street, Paddington (c.1915). Everybody sports a button-hole, suggesting some sort of event.
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