Garrick Yard WC2
Garrick Yard, together with the more familiar Garrick Street to the northeast of here, both took their names from the Garrick Club which, of course, commemorates the famous 18th century actor, David Garrick. As a young man of 18 years of age, David Garrick left his native town of Lichfield on the 2 March 1737 and set out for London sharing a horse with his tutor, Samuel Johnson. Whilst Johnson had high hopes of winning fame in the world of literature, Garrick came to complete his education in law, a profession he was very soon diverted from in preference for the stage. The two arrived in the Capital with only four pence (2p) between them and were forced into pleading with a bookseller friend of the Garrick family to lend them five pounds. After spending a short period at a college in Rochester, David Garrick’s sentiment for the theatre compelled him to terminate his studies, and with his elder brother, Peter, went into the business of selling wine as a stop-gap while awaiting the opportunity to present himself as an actor.
It was in March 1941 when Garrick got his big break and until his death on 20 January 1779 he enjoyed the fame and popularity attributed to the greatest of actors in his time. Boswell said of him: ‘the undisputed monarch of the British stage; is probably in fact the greatest actor who has ever lived.’ He further went on in praise of his achievements: ‘A clever playwright, occasional poet, and adapter; manager of Drury Lane Theatre. Has accumulated a fortune; owns a splendid house with a fine library.’ In applause of his artistry Boswell enthused in these words: ‘A small man whose behaviour on the stage is so natural that one forgets that he is acting’. Samuel Johnson, who had remained a friend of Garrick throughout his life, commented on the death of the actor: ‘Garrick’s death is a striking event; not that we should be surprised with the death of any man who has lived sixty-two years; but because there was a vivacity in our late celebrated friend, which drove away the thoughts of death from any association with him. I am sure you [Boswell] will be tenderly affected with his departure…’ Johnson would not hear the name of Garrick slandered and neither would he let it be implied that Garrick was infected with airs and graces or was mean. When Mrs Burney, wife of his friend Dr Charles Burney, suggested that Garrick’s funeral was an ‘extravagantly expensive’ occasion with accusations that there were six horses to each coach, he swiftly jumped to the defence: ‘Madam, there were no more six horses than six phoenixes.’
It is quite fitting and proper that this great performer should be commemorated in the area where he lived and so often tramped the boards, but it is such a great pity that the Yard associated with his name is now an ignoble grubby monument. If the dirty iron gates were not baring your way you would no more relish the experience of venturing within its walls than a swim in the Fleet Sewer at high tide.
Gee’s Court W1
UG: Bond Street
Bus: Any to Bond Street Stn
From Bond Street Station cross to the north side of Oxford Street. Gee’s Court is about 15 yds east of James Street and about 35 yds west of Stratford Place.
Gee’s Court departs from the busy Oxford Street through a tiny archway and is identified on the edge of the pavement by an ornate clock bearing the words ‘St Christopher’s Place’ across its face. On the blue painted clock standard a sign points to Gee’s Court and St Christopher’s Place. If you are still confused, look down to the pavement and see the inset brass plaque.
Gee’s Court is paved with aged, well trodden, stone flags giving it an instant air of old London – a charming little cranny, unknown as yet to many tourists. Tastefully modernised Victorian shops adorned with flowing hanging baskets line both side of the narrow passage. Authentic gas lamp style lights bracketed to the walls complete the picture for this exceptional experience. Dillon’s, the booksellers have a shop here, there is a selection of boutiques and for refreshment, Cranks Restaurant and Takeaway.
At the northern end of the Court is Barret Street, looking as though it has been blocked off in mid stream. It was originally intended as an extension to Henrietta Street, but the buildings in Stratford Place, the result of a sly plot, prevented the connection (see Gray’s Yard). In the last few years this section of the street has been paved and pedestrianised resulting in a charming little square. Three trees, with all the appearance of having been there for years, have seating arranged around them and six period lamp standards are arranged around the square, each with overflowing hanging baskets suspend from their cross arms. There are toilets too – down a flight of steps surrounded by ornate iron railings. Rounding off the scene, is a water feature created at the eastern end.
Directly opposite to Gee’s Court, on the north side of Barret Street is St Christopher’s Place – not exactly a bargain basement, but a very pleasant arcade of shops and restaurants.
George Court WC2
UG: Charing Cross
Bus: 6 9 11 13 15 23 77A 91 176
Turn right out of Charing Cross ML Station, cross Villiers Street and continue for about 80 yds along the south side of the Strand. George Court is on the right opposite Agar Street.
Many of the streets to the south of the western end of the Strand occupy the site of the Duke of Buckingham’s London estate and it is fascinating to note the origin of their names, although some have now been changed. George Court commemorates the head of the family, George Villiers, 1st Duke of Buckingham.
York House had passed through various ownerships before it was presented by the Crown, in 1557, to the Archbishop of York in payment for Whitehall Place (then York Place) which had been seized by King Henry from Cardinal Wolsey. However, successive Archbishop’s chose not to use the house, arranging alternative accommodation in London, and the house was leased to Nicholas Bacon, as Lord Keeper of the Great Seal. Bacon immediately took possession of the house and remained there through the birth of his second son, Francis, until his death in 1579. For almost 70 years York House continued as the residence of the Lord Keeper and in 1617 Francis Bacon returned to his birthplace when he succeeded Thomas Egerton to the office. Three years later, Bacon was found guilty of corruption and sentenced to several years imprisonment. A request from the King for him to relinquish his right to York House was initially rejected but Bacon eventually climbed down and the house was offered to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham. The Duke, however, was delayed from taking up occupancy until a satisfactory deal was struck between the Crown and the see of York. Agreement was finally reached in 1624 and York House was passed back to the Crown in exchange for an assortment of smaller estates.
In the same year, George Villiers took possession of the house and began carrying out extensive modification, but unfortunately someone with a grievance decided the premature end of his life and the work ceased. Although his wife, Katherine, continued to reside at the house she had little enthusiasm for continuing the modifications and when she died in 1649 the estate passed to the second Duke, George. In about 1672 she sold the house for £30,000 to Nicholas Barbon, a property developer, who lived in Crane Court, a move necessitated by heavy debt. The conditions of the sale were that any streets which Barbon laid out were to be named after the Duke. Hence the names originally given to the streets: George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Of Alley and Buckingham Street (George Villiers Duke of Buckingham). George Street has now been renamed York Buildings and Of Alley (leading off Villiers Street) has been renamed York Place. George Court, however, still completes the sequence, with Of Alley the only exclusion.
George Court today serves three purposes; one, as a cut-through between the Strand and John Adam Street; two, to replenish your stock of wine from the Australian Wine Centre, advertising the largest stock of Australian wines in the UK (open 10 am until 7 pm); three, to join the jostling crowds at the George public house which has stood on the site since Nicholas Barbon completed his development of the area in about 1680.
George Yard W1
UG: Bond Street
Bus: Any to Bond Street station
Follow the directions for Duke’s Yard. George Yard is on the west side of Duke Street, opposite Dukes Yard
This is a wide Yard of no mean proportions, named in commemoration of John George, for some time an employee of Lord Grosvenor. The exact nature of his position is not clear but it is likely that he was involved in the building of the Estate.
Mayfair’s northern reaches used to be the favoured spot for housing servants employed by the aristocracy of Grosvenor Square and beyond. Now that most of their houses have been turned into offices it is surprising to find that there are still flats for the working classes here. On the north side of the wide Yard is the red brick building housing the Peabody Trust Chesham Flats, offering low cost accommodation in a district deemed to be one of the most desirable address in London. Adjacent, on the corner of Duke Street, is the attractive Barley Mow public house where a good night out could easily cost a weeks rent next door.
George Yard EC3
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to Bank
From Bank Station, cross to the south side of Cornhill and walk through Pope’s Head Alley. At the end turn left into Lombard Street. In about 110 yds cross Birchin Lane and pass the church of St Edmund the King. George Yard is then on the left.
George Yard was once a graceful little corner housing a variety of attractive buildings, but now it is dominated by high banking premises facing onto Lombard Street and Gracechurch Street. To add to the pain, at the time of writing contractors are working on some lengthy redevelopment project and who knows what will emerge.
From the 16th century a wine merchants shop stood on the corner of the Yard with a tethered live vulture as its trade sign. Early in the morning of the 3rd September 1666 the merchant was doing pretty brisk business and rubbing his hands with glee, but by mid afternoon his shop and entire stock had gone the same way as everything else in the neighbourhood – devoured by the mighty furnace. In the aftermath, he struck a deal with the landlord of the George tavern – also burnt down – to use part of the newly built hostelry for the continuance of his business (see Castle Court).
The church of St Edmund, once known as St Edmund Grass church ‘because the said grass market came down so low’, dates from the 12th century. It was rebuilt by Wren in 1679 after total destruction in the Great Fire, restored in 1864 and 1880, then again in 1917 after First World War damage. Its noteworthy steeple with carvings, stone urns, and projecting clock, were added in 1708. The interior, too, is an exhibition of intricately carved 17th century woodwork; sanctuary screen, pulpit and font are particularly exquisite.
George Inn Yard SE1
UG: London Bridge
Bus: 21 35 40 133 344 P3 P11 or any to London Bridge station
From the southern end of London Bridge continue under the railway bridge along the east side of Borough High Street. Cross London Bridge Street, St Thomas Street, then King’s Head Yard and White Hart Yard then look up for the sign of the George Inn. This is George Inn Yard.
georgeinn.jpg (14817 bytes)At one time no other part of London was richer in historic inns and taverns than Southwark. Indeed, it was almost littered with galleried inns. Among them were the George, White Hart, Queen’s Head, King’s Head, The Bell, The Catherine Wheel, and probably the most famous of them all, The Tabard, selected by Chaucer for the start of his pilgrimage to the shrine of St Thomas of Canterbury. It was pulled down in 1874 to make way for modern developments. Pilgrims provide one reason for Southwark having this profusion of inns and taverns. At the sounding of the curfew bell the gates of London Bridge were locked and travellers arriving after this time had to find accommodation for the night. Those travelling south from the city, wishing to make an early start needed to cross the bridge before curfew and stay the night in Southwark. Records show that in 1619 the population of Southwark consisted mainly of innkeepers.
It is sad to think that of the many galleried inns of old Southwark only the George now remains, and of that, only a small part is still standing. All the others are gone and on their graves are now shops and commercial premises.
The George, which is one of London’s most famous tourist attractions, was first recorded in 1552. In the reign of Edward VI it was in the hands of Humphrey Collet who was Member of Parliament for Southwark between 1511 and 1513. In his will he left the inn to his son Thomas and in the tenure of Nicholas Marten. William Grubb was in possession of the property from 1596 until his death in 1621, when his widow, Elizabeth, took over the tenancy until William Blundell purchased the inn in 1626. In his early years as owner, he was reported for committing the unforgivable crime of selling intoxicating liquor during the hours of divine service. Blundell was in residence until the George passed into joint ownership between John Sawyer and Thomas Stow in 1635, when it was listed as ‘2 buildings parte timber and parte brick’. In 1668 Mr Sawyer leased the inn to Nicholas Andrews who then sub-let it to Thomas Underwood at a rent of £150 per year. Underwood died the following year leaving the property to his widow, Mary, who, without sheading a tear, promptly married the lodger, Mark Weyland, and handed the tenancy over to his name.
In 1670 a fire, thought to have started in a hop store, which was situated on the left just inside the gate, destroyed most of the inn and outbuildings. Weyland rebuilt the inn and as compensation for his labours his lease was substantially extended. Six years later disaster struck once again; a fire, believed to have started at the house of a Mr Walsh, situated between the George and the Talbot, swept down the Borough High Street destroying all the buildings along the way. The George fell victim and was reduced to a shell of charred wood. In 1678 the inn was again rebuilt and sold by John Sawyer’s son to John Sweetapple of Lombard Street, who then sold it to Daniel Wight for the sum of £1600. Philip Aynscombe married Valentia White, the grand daughter of Daniel, and after being held in trust it was transferred to Valentia. In 1785 the inn was sold to Lillie Smith, a city merchant who sold it to Westerman Schofield in 1809. When Schofield died it was transferred to his widow and it remained in her possession until she died in 1859. At this point the Governors of Guy’s Hospital purchased the inn for £9100 and granted a lease to George Greenslade.
During the mid 19th century, part of the yard was used by the Great Eastern Railway Company as a depot for goods vehicles. In 1874 the Hospital Governors were persuaded to sell the property and part of the yard to the Railway Company for an agreed figure of £10,000. A large section of the yard to the east was partitioned off and retained for the use of the Hospital. A year or two later the whole of the north side of the galleried buildings were demolished, leaving the George, in outward appearance, as we see it today.
A Mrs Murray became the proprietor from 1878 and retained the property until her death in 1903 when she was succeeded by her unmarried daughter. When this daughter died in 1935 Harold and Leslie Staples became the new hosts. With an eye for business the two brothers carried out some internal refurbishment in an effort to create a more comfortable and attractive atmosphere. As a gift, the inn was presented to the National trust in 1937.
Ever since tourism began, the George has been on the list of every foreign visitor to London. Coach operators have it on their organised points of call and guide books never fail to mention it. Stand in the bar on a summer evening and it is possible to hear every language and tongue under the sun; a steady hum of undecipherable conversation mixed with the clicking of cameras and the flood lighting from dozens of flash lights. The organised tourist never seems to stay long though, barely enough time to order a half of English beer, never mind drink it; the tight schedule of the tour operator allows nothing more than a fleeting glimpse.
The entrance to the ‘old bar’ is the first door on the right leading from the yard. Until a few years ago, when major alterations took place, this was the only drinking bar. A plain room with about as many comforts as Shakespeare would have been used to. Hard oak seating, bare boards on the floor, scrubbed tables, the sagging ceiling and heavily sashed windows, – some of the window glass is still of the original.
On the wall facing the servery is what came to be known as a parliamentary clock. They were introduced in 1797 when a tax was imposed upon private clocks and many people gave up their own timepieces. Some innkeepers then provided public clocks as a service to their patrons.
In the area of the servery itself is another old relic of the past. On the right, as viewed from the bar, is a bank of old beer engines which closely resemble a cash register. They are well over 100 years old and until a few years ago they were the only method of serving the draught beer. After long service they are now in retirement.
The George is a superb example of antiquity, not only in the building and furnishings but, until a dozen or so years ago, in the staff as well. Until the George received its face-lift, the one and only bar person was a small old lady of somewhat Dickensian appearance. She had been there for many years and it was intriguing in the way she managed to understand the orders given in so many different languages, without so much as the batting of an eye-lid. There could have been no person more fitting than her. When she retired it was as though the old inn had lost something of its tradition.
In the restaurant too, the waitresses where turned out in fitting attire of long black dresses with white frilly aprons and caps, flitting among the pews and scrubbed tables (where the long modernised bar is now). The only form of lighting were the flickering candles on the tables.
Glasshouse Alley EC4
UG: Blackfriars
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76 171A to Ludgate Circus
About 220 yds west of Ludgate Circus turn into Whitefriars Street. In about 130 yds turn right into Brittons Court (the sign says George Court). Turn left into Ashentree Court then right into Magpie Alley. Glasshouse Alley is on the left.
Between Glasshouse Alley and Whitefriars Street is the site of the Whitefriars Glass Company. From 1710 until 1923 it continued to output the finest of lead crystal glassware to be found anywhere in the world. Until the mid-16th century the site had supported another labour of love; that of preaching. Since 1241 the Carmelite friars had occupied this vast site stretching westward as far as the Temple and who knows, they may still have been here had Henry VIII not turfed them out in 1538. For near on 200 years after their departure the area remained a den of crime and squalor brought about by the villains who took advantage of the honoured right of sanctuary enjoyed by the friars.
Eerie and almost devoid of natural daylight are the only words to describe this narrow alleyway. Walking down here, one cannot avoid the experience of confinement and a need to depart in haste lest a ruffian from the dark ages should still be lingering. Old stone flag paving beneath the feet and high rise old buildings tower on both sides. What a relief to emerge into Tudor Street and slink into the White Swan Tavern for a heart composing brandy. Of course, for the more stout hearted, Glasshouse Alley is not such a tormenting place at all; if the mind does not wander, the palpitations are kept in check. – Maybe, after all, a pint of ale will suffice.
Glasshouse Yard EC1
UG: Barbican
Bus: 4 56
From Barbican Station turn onto Aldersgate Street and walk north across Carthusian Street. The entrance to Glasshouse Yard is then about 75 yds on the left, almost opposite Fan Street.
Glass making in 17th century London was a growing industry and by 1700 there were no less than 30 factories turning out glass for various uses. Due to the noxious fumes produced in the manufacturing of glass the factory owners were required to build high chimneys to take away the fumes and so prevent ill health problems in local communities. Those owners who failed to comply were ordered to do so, or ran the risk of closure.
When a glass works was set up in this Yard about 1677 it probably happened amid shouts of protest from neighbouring residents that included the old gentlemen at Thomas Sutton’s hospital, who shared the adjacent buildings with the Charterhouse School. However, the inscribed history of this square site lying between St John Street and Aldersgate Street begins much further back in time. In 1348 this prosperous city of near on 60,000 population was stricken by the most fatal epidemic – the Black Death. At its height, in the spring months of 1349, the disease was claiming lives at the rate of hundreds every day. Burial pits were opened in fields owned by St Bartholomew’s Hospital and at Smithfield, where it is said that over 200 bodies were tipped daily. With this sort of volume the mass graves were quickly nearing capacity, so Sir Walter de Manny, a distinguished swordsman of Edward III, purchased this land, then known as Spital Croft, to be used as a supplementary burial ground. But Manny’s plans for the site were not short term; he had long been nurturing the idea of founding a community of twelve priests and so, when the epidemic was over, he built here a chapel and adjoining domestic quarters. At the request of the Bishop of London, Michael de Northburgh, his plans were to take on new dimensions and by 1371 the entire site was covered with cloisters, cells and allotments. It was named the Priory of the Salutation of the Mother of God and its foundation was to welcome the Carthusian monks who for the previous 200 years had been making their way from their mother house at Grande Chartreuse in France. It is from this name that we get the corruption, Charterhouse.
After the dissolution of the monasteries, many of the buildings were pulled down and the site was granted to Edward North, afterwards Lord North, who built a mansion here. Throughout the remainder of the 16th century the estate passed through the hands of the Dukes of Northumberland and Norfolk, both of whom were executed, until it was bought by Thomas Sutton for £13,000 in 1611. Sutton had made a fortune from selling coal and on this site ploughed his reserves into the founding of a hospital for aged gentlemen and a free school for forty poor boys.
Out of Thomas Sutton’s foundation, Charterhouse School quickly developed into one of the most distinguished public schools in the country. In 1872 it was transferred to Godalming in Surrey and 1875 the Charterhouse site became the temporary home of the Merchant Taylors’ School. Excavations carried out prior to rebuilding, after devastating damage in 1941, revealed the lead coffin containing the remains of the priory founder Walter de Manny – he died in 1372 and was buried beneath the high altar. New buildings here are now the home of St Bartholomew’s Medical School.
Depleted finances now allow for a maximum of forty old gentlemen who must be bachelors or widowers, over sixty years of age, and members of the Church of England. They occupy rooms, or almshouses, in Master’s Court and Wash-house Court.
There is no access to the Charterhouse from Glasshouse Yard but admittance can be gained via the 16th century gatehouse in Rutland Place off the northeast corner of Charterhouse Square. Permission is however required from the Master and there is a charge.
Today’s high walls of Glasshouse Yard no more contribute to a salubrious habitat than their predecessors did in those bygone days; it was not a pretty place then – but for the newness of the orange bricks of the five storey Orion building the visual impact has changed little. Once it was a typical yard with a narrow passage giving access to the wider working area, but now it has effectively been turned into a passage with the opening up of a second entrance onto the main road – providing for a hasty retreat should you feel the need.
Globe Yard W1
UG: Bond Street
Bus: Any to Bond Street station
At the junction with Oxford Street and Davies Street, near Bond Street Station, turn into South Moulton Street. Globe Yard is approx 135 yds on the left adjacent to number 56.
Globe Yard, in the midst the fashionable South Moulton Street shops, leads to the Globe Restaurant and Wine Bar. Following the Yard round to the right it emerges into Haunch of Venison Yard.
Today it is almost impossible to accept that South Moulton Street was once the scene of untold deprivation. Such was the destitution here that it was commonly know as Poverty Lane. The area forms part of the Grosvenor Estate and was developed in the early 18th century.
Gloucester Court EC3
Gloucester Court is off Tower Hill to the north west side of the Tower, near to the Information Centre and the toilets. It runs northwest behind the church of All Hallows by the Tower.
Gloucester Court is a relative newcomer to the City, created out of the eastern end of Great Tower Street which, until the end of the 19th century, used to continue to Tower Hill. In a programme of major alterations a section of Great Tower Street, from Rood Lane to Mark Lane, was widened, and at the same time, Byward Street was constructed to provided a more convenient access to Trinity Square. Thus the narrow east end of Great Tower Street was rendered redundant, pedestrianised, and called a court. It now contains touristy shops, and yes, as if you had not already guessed – a Macdonalds. At the western end, where the Court has more recently become Tower Place, there are a number of seats.
Along side the Court at its western end is the church of All Hallows, more correctly titled All Hallows Barking, with its dedication to the Blessed Virgin Mary and all the Saints. Barking, because it was founded as a chapel for the nuns of Barking Convent. The date of its foundation is unknown but certainly there has been a church on this site since the 13th century and possibly much earlier. All Hallows is steeped in history, contributed to by its close proximity to the Tower. Victims of the unsavoury happenings on Tower Hill were often temporarily accommodated until a final resting place could be arranged. John Fisher, after remaining headless on Tower Hill for a whole day, was taken by order of the King to be buried at All Hallows. Humphrey, Duke of Monmouth after suffering at the hands of a drunken executioner found momentary repose there. Archbishop Laud and Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey too had passing graves in the churchyard of All Hallows.
It narrowly escaped destruction in the Great Fire thanks to the quick thinking of Admiral Penn who sent workmen to blow up neighbouring houses, so creating a gap and starving the flames of fuel. However, the last war took its toll when the church was severely damaged by incendiary bombs.
John Quincy Adams who later was elected President of the United States was married here in 1797, so too was the infamous Judge Jeffries who in later years knelt at the mercy of the executioner only yards away on Tower Hill. William Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, was baptised in the church in 1644.
In 1922 All Hallows was made the Guild Church of Toc H. The constantly burning ‘Lamp of Maintenance’, from which all Toc H lamps are lit, is kept here.
Goodwin’s Court WC2
UG: Leicester Square
Bus: 24 29 176
Adjacent to 55-56 St Martin’s Lane
Right in the centre of the frontage to The Theatre Goers Club of Great Britain are two steps leading into this narrow gem of a court. Built about 1627 it really is a delightful experience – a treasure of old London, and as fresh today as when the mortar was still wet. On the south side of the Court, numbers one to eight have enchanting Georgian bowed windows painted black, and highly polished knockers and knobs fitted to each of the doors. There are also some fine examples of working gas lamps outside the stepped entrances to number 1, owned by C P Carpets of Kidderminster, and numbers five and eight. Note the clock above the first floor window over the archway leading into Bedfordbury.
Before the London Fire Brigade was established, it was up to the individual owners of property to insure against damage by fire. So that the fire fighting forces of the day could see that houses were insured, owners displayed identification marks on doors. One of these marks can be seen at Goodwin’s Court.
Number 10 is Giovanni’s Italian Restaurant, a delicate reminder that the properties here used to be shops.
Goslet Yard WC2
UG: Tottenham Court Road
Bus: 7 8 10 14 19 24 25 29 38 55 98 176 to Tottenham Court Rd station
Goslet Yard is off the west side of Charing Cross Road approximately 185 yds south of Tottenham Court Road Station between Sutton Row and Manette Street.
The wide cul-de-sac forming Goslet Yard has greatly changed its image since the stock rooms of Alfred Goslet encompassed the entire area. Whether for the better or worse, it now contains the rooms of the Royal George public house from where the young blooded in their droves pour out into the open air. Loud music seems to be the order of the day – every day; the customers love it – and, for a different reason, so do the management.
Alfred Goslet started his own business as a supplier of plate glass in 1854 after serving for a number of years as a salesman for the Soho Glass Company. His shop used to be adjacent to the Yard on Charing Cross Road – an impressive frontage with tall arched windows.
Gough Square EC4
UG: Blackfriars
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76
About 200 yds west of Ludgate Circus, on the north side of Fleet Street, turn into Hind Court. Within 70 yds the court opens out into the square.
When Richard Gough, a prosperous wool merchant, wandered down Fleet Street in the closing years of the 17th century, nipping in and out of the narrow passages, he took a shine to a small plot of land quite near to the Globe tavern. Within a year or two it was laid out to reflect his mind’s eye plan – a quadrangle surrounded with elegant three storey houses. Very soon after the Square was built it became popular with the well-to-do fashionable element of society who were attracted by the secluded location. Most of the houses were pulled down at the beginning of the 20th century to make way for commercial premises and only number 17 remains.
There is one person and one person only who can justly be associated with Gough Square, and he is none other than that crotchety lexicographer, writer and wit, Samuel Johnson.
While still a relatively unknown figure in the City streets, Johnson moved into number 17 Gough Square in 1748 out of the need to be conveniently near to his printer, William Strahan of New Street. Dressed in his very rusty looking brown suit of clothes, ill drawn up black worstered stockings, unbuckled shoes and his old shrivelled un-powdered wig, the affluent neighbours must have wondered what on earth was coming upon them. It was during his time at Gough Square the Johnson achieved public notoriety; most of the happenings for which he is remembered, his character and personality, opinions and events, occurred after walking through the door of number 17.
He arrived clutching the contract for his Dictionary of the English Language, a work he hoped to bring to the ‘verge of publication’ within three years. When asked how he was going to complete such a mammoth task in so short a time, when the French Academy took forty years, he relied ‘Sir, thus it is. This is the proportion. Let me see; forty times forty is sixteen hundred. As three to sixteen hundred, so is the proportion of a Frenchman to an Englishman.’ – it actually took him eight years.
On the top floor of the house, he and six helpers laboured – he pouring over books and writing definitions while the others were involved in cutting and pasting. For this tedious drudgery the six were collectively paid a princely twenty-three shillings per week (£1.15). Although he was never happy that they delivered value for money, they were company for the great orator and provided him with conversation when he needed a break. At last, in 1755, the final pages went to press and Boswell was there to record the event: ‘When the messenger who carried the last sheet to Millar [Johnson’s publisher] returned, Johnson asked him,”Well, what did he say?” – “Sir (answered the messenger), he said thank God, I have done with him.” – “I am glad (replied Johnson with a smile), that he thanks God for any thing.”‘ The dictionary appeared in two large folio volumes containing a total of almost 2300 pages of words and their definitions. Soon after its publication it was suggested to Johnson that perhaps he had not realised the enormity of the undertaking, to which he responded ‘I knew very well what I was undertaking – and very well how to do it – and have done it very well.’
At Gough Square Johnson suffered the greatest set-back of his entire life – the death of his wife Elizabeth, ‘Tetty’, as he affectionately called her. After a sequence of illnesses her final day came on the 17th March 1752, and only then did he realise the full value she had contributed to his life. We hear very little of her while alive but after her death Johnson scarcely let a day go by without a mention in his diaries; until his own final hours she was always his ‘poor dear Tetty’. Although he held the view that ‘a second marriage is a triumph over experience’, Johnson never remarried.
Over the steps leading up to the doorway of number 17 have passed some of the most famous characters in the history of literature. To this house, on many occasions, came the man from whom we have learnt virtually all we know of Samuel Johnson – his biographer, James Boswell. John Hawkins, who from another angle told of the life of Johnson, paid many a visit. Actor David Garrick, who accompanied Johnson in the move from Litchfield to London, made frequent calls, as did artist Sir Joshua Reynolds, Oliver Goldsmith, Edmund Burke, and Charles Burney. Johnson was constantly surrounded by people, many came purely for the scintillating conversation and others to quiz on this and that
Since Tetty’s death, the house in Gough Square had become more and more unmanageable; it was fine while she was around busying herself with household chores but now he no longer needed a property of these proportions. His negro servant, Frank Barber, having temporarily left him for the high seas, Johnson decided to quit the Square and by March 1759 had taken up lodgings at Staple Inn.
During Johnson’s time at number 17 the third floor had three windows looking down onto Gough Square but the middle one was blown out during the Second World War and the space was bricked up. Towards the end of the 19th century the ground floor was occupied by Waller and Bains, printers. The first floor was a reading club set up by a Mr Campbell in 1887 for the use of working boys and girls. In 1911 the house was purchased by Cecil Harmsworth to save it from demolition and presented it as a gift to be kept in trust for the nation – it is now restored in much the same character as the doctor left it. All that is missing is the man himself. It is now the home of the London Johnson Society, open to the public on Monday to Saturday throughout the year.
Grange Court WC2
UG: Temple
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76 171A
On the north side of St Clement Danes church (Strand) continue along
Buildings first occupied the site of Grange Court in the early 13th century when the Dominican Friars, commonly known as the Black Friars, built their substantial but temporary monastery on land stretching to the north-east. In 1279 the monks moved to a new site on the north bank of the Thames (Blackfriars) and Edward I granted the house, sundry buildings, and land to his buddy, Henry de Lacey, Earl of Lincoln. In his twenties Lacey had studied law and now as an established practitioner the King appointed him to set up a working committee with responsibility for investigating unscrupulous trends in the courts of law. When Lacey died in 1312 he left his mansion and all out-houses at the disposal of students of law for use as hostels.
Three or four of the out-houses stood close to the site of Grange Court and by the end of the 14th century these were being used as the bakery and grain store of the inn. By about 1700 it appears that the Society of Lincoln’s Inn had no further use for this small cluster, they were abandoned and subsequently demolished. There seemed little else to do with the vacant site so they built a tavern and, reflecting the old wheat store – with slight corruption – named it the Grange. The house was demolished in 1852.
Grange Court is dominated on the west side by the grimy brick walls of the London School of Economics. On the east side, behind railings, are the brighter but characterless modern buildings of the Royal Courts of Justice, completed in 1968.
Gray’s Yard W1
UG: Bond Street
Bus: 6 7 10 12 13 15 23 73 94 98 113 137 139 159 to Bond Street Station
From Bond Street Station cross to the north side of Oxford Street and turn into James Street. On the east side cross over Barrett Street and Pickton Place. Gray’s Yard is then a few yds on the left.
In 1774 Sir Thomas Edwardes was already in the process of developing the land he had some years previously acquired from Thomas Barrett. It consisted of a small but valuable plot adjoining the west side of the Cavendish-Harley estate which Edward Harley, Earl of Oxford, had commenced building up in 1717. Sir Thomas’s plans were to construct a number of streets to link up with the fashionable, well-to-do complex around Cavendish Square and thereby attract the wealthy classes to provide him with a nice little earner.
His research, however, had faltered along the way and he overlooked one possible complication: Edward Stratford was sitting prettily on an intervening slender strip of land leased from the City of London Corporation in 1771. For four years the plot lay unused and there was no apparent urgency to present any plans until, that was, Stratford heard of his neighbours proposals. Before Edwardes could think of his next move the markers for Stratford Place were already being laid out. It seems too much of a coincidence to suppose that this vindictive action was already in the pipe-line for the resulting ‘street’ protrudes like a sore thumb, a cul-de-sac going nowhere, and at that time, leading to nothing. The effect on Thomas Edwardes’s scheme can still be seen today in the partly completed Barrett Street which he intended to connect with Henrietta Place on the east side of Stratford Place. His expectations for the new development were instantly dashed; prospective tenants withdrew their interest, resulting in the dire aftermath of rapidly declining property values.
There was a small corner of the plot that still remained undeveloped but Edwardes was advised that his finances would be less depleted if he leased the land at a small price rather than enter into personal development expenditure. Enter Edward Gray, locally famed scavenger and open dustbin for anything going. He was not a builder himself, in fact he was not aligned with any recognised trade, donning the hat which happened to fit at the time. If ever there was a quick way to dispose of a near useless piece of land it was surely by offering it to Gray. The plot was snapped up on an agreed lease and without further ado work was commenced on Gray’s Yard followed by Edward’s Mews.
Beyond its large square opening the widened out Yard contains nothing of special interest – not that it ever has. Old Gray was not prone to adding those non-essential trimmings, and in keeping with his strictly adhered to style, his commemorative cul-de-sac is totally devoid of them. In contrast, the most striking feature around here is on the opposite side of the main street. During the summer months James Street takes on a truly Continental appearance decked with numerous tables, chairs and a forest of parasols outside the Christie Ristorante Italiano and other like establishments. If Gray’s Yard is a disappointment, this scene is certainly not.
Great Swan Alley EC2
UG: Moorgate
Bus: 21 43 76 133 141 172 271
From Moorgate station cross Moorgate to the City of London Coll. and walk south crossing London Wall. Great Swan Alley is then approx 110 yds on the left.
The outstanding feature of Great Swan Alley is the hall of the Institute of Chartered Accountants. Whilst not being of particularly ancient construction it does offer certain delights on which to feast the eye. It was designed by John Belcher and built in 1893 with an extension added in 1930. Of particular note is the frieze above the first floor windows which depicts a variety of crafts, trades, and professions presented in an expanse of over 100 figures continuing round the building into Moorgate Place.
Today, Great Swan Alley is approximately half its former length. It was curtailed in 1835 when work began on the construction of Moorgate. Before that time it linked Copthall Avenue with Coleman Street. This area of the City is an intriguing place with its many alleys and narrow streets, once so confined that during the Great Plague the local sexton was almost driven insane through the problems encountered when removing bodies. Until 1969 you could still take refreshment in the tavern which gave the Alley its name, the White Swan. It replaced a previous tavern on the site and in the process its name was changed to Ye Old Swans Nest.
Great Bell Alley EC2
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to the Bank
From Bank station walk north along Princes St by the side of the Bank. At the end cross Lothbury and then cross to the west side of Moorgate. Great Bell Alley is then about 90 yds on the left side of Moorgate.
Great Bell Alley, or purely Bell Alley, as it was originally named – from the Old Bell Inn that stood in Coleman Street during the 17th century – was one of many which were truncated when the construction of Moorgate was commenced in 1835. It used to continue along the line of Telegraph Street and mingle into the little maze of alleys and courts between Moorgate and Copthall Avenue. The western length which remains today was renamed Great Bell Alley while the severed length to the east retained its old name. When the General Post Office opened a branch of the telegraph office on the site in 1840 the name of the eastern length was changed to Telegraph Street.
Robert Bloomfield, author of The Farmers Boy, served his apprenticeship as a shoemaker and in later years set up his shop at number 14. The site is now covered by the Butler’s Head public house, on the corner of Whalebone Court.
Green Arbour Court EC4
UG: Chancery Lane/St Paul’s
Bus: 8 25 501 521
From Holborn Viaduct Station walk east along the south side of Holborn Viaduct and turn into Old Bailey and then right again into the court.
Until Holborn Viaduct Station caused its truncation, this was the eastern upper limit of Turnagain Lane. So called because it went down to the bank of the Fleet River where there was no bridge across, which meant that the only option was to turn round and come back. Holborn Viaduct Station was opened on the 1st March 1874 and now Green Arbour Court proceeds no further than its walls. The dedication of its name is not certain but it seems that the lane was once lined with shady trees, hence arbour (bower): an enclosure surrounded by foliage or trees.
Today that idyllic greenery is replaced by cold, drab concrete buildings. The Spear and Pond Hotel formerly stood at number 15 Old Bailey, on the corner of the Court. Now the site is occupied by the Friends Provident Insurance Company.
Greenhill’s Rents EC1
UG: Farringdon
Bus: 153
Off the south side of Cowcross Street just before the junction with Charterhouse Street, about 165 yds east of Farringdon Station.
When John Greenhill bought the Castle Tavern at number 34 Cowcross Street he already owned many of the houses in the area. He was a notable businessman with an ever-open eye for speculative opportunity. In 1737 he purchased a newly built row of houses on this site and let them out at attractive rents, hence the appendage to his name. However, his subsequent profit-making plans to erect market stalls met with violent demonstrations and as a result, his application to the City Council was flatly turned down.
There is also a more entertaining story concerning the Castle Tavern; it goes like this: George IV, feeling lucky one day, called in to try his hand at the local cock-fighting venue. Fortune was with him and on the first four or five bouts he made a reasonable killing. Chuckling and stamping his feet he thought he would go the whole hog on the next fight and increased his stakes multifold, leaving only his taxi fare home. Waiting for the fight to begin he heard on the grapevine that the opposition had been doped. Naturally he wanted to be in on a good thing and reached into his pocket for his last few coins. As fate had it, the information was wrong and his bird lost. Fearful of returning home penniless he scurried round the corner to the Castle, where the landlord was just calling time. ‘Y’ll have to be quick’, he shouted as the King breathlessly scrambled through the door. ‘Look’, he said, ‘I’m a bit short of the readies, how about lending me a few quid till next week’. On this the landlord grabbed him by the throat and threatened to throw him through the window. ‘Hang on’, the King screeched, ‘you know me, I’m the King’. ‘Yeh, and I’m Oliver Cromwell’, laughed the landlord. The King pulled out his watch and chain, a fine specimen handed down through the family. ‘What about this as security?’ Closely examining it the landlord agreed. ‘Three quid’, he announced, ‘and not a penny more.’ George IV was so overjoyed that he took the cash and granted him a pawnbrokers licence on the spot.
The three brass balls of the pawnbroker still hang in the bar today but it is inadvisable to turn up at the Castle on the expectation that you will be fed and watered in return for your all-singing-all-dancing quartz watch.
See also Faulkner’s Alley.
Green Dragon Court SE1
UG: London Bridge
Bus: Any to London Bridge station
Off the west side of Borough High Street, immediately south of Southwark Cathedral.
Squeezed beneath the railway tracks into London Bridge Station, this Court is a memorial to the Green Dragon Tavern, known in the 14th century as Cobham’s Inn, after its owner, Lady Cobham. On her death the inn was left to the Priory of St Mary Overy and in 1560 a lease was granted on the property to the wardens of St Saviour’s church. A condition of the lease was that a school was to be built on the site, and within two years the establishment, named St Saviour’s Grammar School, was opened with places for 100 pupils. In 1676 a fire, believed to have started near to the George Inn on Borough High Street, destroyed a great many buildings and the school fell victim. Rebuilding was quickly begun and the school continued on the site until 1835 when it moved to Sumner Street.
Throughout most of its length, Green Dragon Court is formed from a blackened arch running beneath the tracks into London Bridge Station. It might be regarded by some as a grubby old place but in all truthfulness there is plenty of character here. Where the Court opens out into Bedale Street is the Globe Tavern, a pub of sufficiently antique appearance to compliment the Court.
Near to here, in Stoney Street, is the thriving Borough Fruit and Vegetable Market, which is said to have been established in the 13th century. It started out as the London Bridge market and moved to this site in 1756. The market was a popular stopping off place for travellers and when the brothels and bear-baiting venues attracted thousands to Southwark, the market had its hey-day
Green’s Court W1
UG: Piccadilly Circus
Bus: Any to Piccadilly Circus
Leave Piccadilly Circus via Shaftsbury Avenue and turn left into Great Windmill Street. At the junction with Brewer Street turn right. Green’s Court is about 65 yds on the left.
The Court was named after Thomas Green, a builder, who was contracting for Edward Wardour in the 1680’s.
Together with neighbouring Walker’s Court this small area of Soho is quietly teeming with titillating amusement for the tempted male. Outside the ‘Naughty Live Bed Show’ a dimly illuminated red light signifies that the presentation is up and running. La Rosa Italian Restaurant is a few doors away, and seemingly quite out of place, a shoe repairers help to make up the short row of commercial premises.
Greyfriars Passage EC1
UG: St Paul’s
Bus: 8 25 56 501 521
From St Paul’s station cross to the north side of Newgate St and walk west. Cross King Edward St and Greyfriars Passage is just past the remains of the church on the right.
Here on the very site of the priory church of the Franciscans, or Greyfriars, is Greyfriars Passage; it is one of the many thoroughfares in the City of London that has its foundation in the monastic life. The Passage actually marks the divide between the chancel and the nave of the monks’ church and has been a public right of way since before the community settled here.
The Franciscans first arrived in England about the year 1200. There were nine of them, one priest and eight brothers, when they landed at Dover and took the north road towards Canterbury. Five of them went no further than Canterbury and there they set up a community, whilst the remaining four continued the journey to London. Until suitable premises could be found they were accommodated by the already established community of Blackfriars. The Franciscan’s were a simple order; they relied on the generosity of others for their daily necessities. London welcomed their arrival and within weeks a sheriff of the City offered his house in Cornhill for their use. So devoted were the citizens to the work of the Friars that the community grew beyond all expectation that when one John Ewin presented them with a large site near to Newgate in 1225 they were ready to move. Their vast Priory, when it was finally completed in 1337, consisting of church, chapter house, dormitory, library, cloisters, and domestic quarters, covering the site of the Post Office building to the north of here. The church itself measured 300 feet in length and its width was 89 feet, a massive church by any standards. Many notable celebrities of the time were buried here, among them, Queen Margaret, second wife of Edward I, who provided the money for building the chancel, and Queen Isabel, wife of Edward II, who financed embellishments to the nave.
When Henry VIII fell out with the Pope and in a fury decided to rid the country of monasteries he flung the Friars out, closed their church, smashed the memorials and took all their possessions for his own use. Eight years later, in 1546, the King made a gift of the church and monastic buildings to the City. Three parish churches lay in close proximity to the Friars church, St Ewin’s, St Nicholas, and St Sepulchre. St Nicholas’s was demolished and its parish together with the whole of St Ewin’s and part of St Sepulchre’s were amalgamated to form the new parish of Christ Church with the renamed Friars church as the central place of worship.
At this time the Lord Mayor, Sir Richard Dobbs together with other City dignitaries and the Bishop of London were drawing up plans to take into care all children of fatherless and poor families. In 1553 work was commenced on the renovation and conversion to a hospital of the now somewhat derelict monastery. It was named Christ’s Hospital and towards the end of that year almost 400 children were removed from the streets and provided with accommodation, food, clothing, and education. So that the children would easily be recognised should they abscond, they each wore a long blue coat fastened with a leather belt, and yellow stockings.
On Tuesday the 4th September 1666, the day the Great Fire took its toll on this area, the children had been taken out of town for the day. It proved to be a fortunate treat, for by the afternoon there was only the cloister still standing. The children were offered temporary accommodation north of the City and as rebuilding steadily progressed they gradually returned. However, it was not until 1681 that the full compliment of dormitories and the school were restored to use.
In 1902 Christ’s Hospital School was transferred to Horsham in Surrey where it still flourishes and is commonly known as the ‘Blue Coat School’. The London site is now occupied by the large Post Office building and part of St Bartholomew’s Hospital.
After the Great Fire, Christ Church was rebuilt by Wren in 1704 on the site of the chancel of the Friar’s church, to the east of Greyfriars Passage. Devastation once again came the way of Christ Church when all but the tower was completely gutted in December 1940. Slight structural damage to the tower caused it to be demolished but in 1960 it was re-erected using the original masonry. The body of the church was never rebuilt but the original floor plan of Wren’s church still exists to the east of the tower, beautifully laid out in a garden of roses. To the west of the Passage is the graveyard to Wren’s church and the site of the nave of the Friar’s church. Surrounded by trees and lawns, it provides a wonderful place to sit and reflect on the 800 years of historical association.
Greyhound Court WC2
UG: Temple
Bus: 4 11 15 23 26 76 171A
From Temple Station turn into Temple Place, which runs round the rear of Temple Station. In the north east corner walk through the gate into Milford Lane and follow the twisting road round past Tweezers Alley and Travers Street. Greyhound Court is then on the left.
This Court, which derives its name from the Greyhound Tavern, standing here throughout the 18th century, used to be a squalid, undesirable place housing brothels and attracting a variety of lawbreakers. There were numerous taverns around this area, all of similar repute where the trade in stolen goods was often more swift than that of alcohol. There was naturally a cagey atmosphere in these old haunts; strangers wandering in for a quick gargle were viewed with grave suspicion and if their faces did not fit the eviction gang would swiftly be brought into play. In 1622 an order was passed concerning the intolerable situation in the taverns of Milford Lane: ‘Whereas credible informacion hath bene given to this court that divers persons accused of murthers and other heynous and outrageous offences hath goten harbour and as it were taken sanctuarye in the Alehouses and Victualling houses in Milford Lane… It is therefore ordered that the Constable of the said pariche doe forthwith signifie unto all and every of them are suppressed and doe stand dismissed from keepinge of Ale and Beere within theire said houses or without…’ The order went further, giving the constable powers to arrest any landlord who did not comply.
The Old Cheshire Cheese, on the east side of Milford Lane, is the only survivor of these seedy dives, now transformed beyond all recognition from the days of gross corruption. It now plays host to a multitude of office workers who cram into its cosy bar to talk of legal matters and oil.
Grocers’ Hall Court EC2
UG: Bank
Bus: Any to the Bank
From Bank station take the underpass to the north side of Poultry and continue along Poultry for about 90 yds. Grocers Hall Court is on the right.
In the 17th century this Court was known as Conyhope Lane, so called from the sign over a poulterer’s shop on the corner displaying three conies, or rabbits. The name was changed at some time in the late 1700’s to Grocers’ Alley and remained so until the early 20th century when it was changed once again – this time to Grocers’ Hall Court.
During the 18th century the Court, or Lane as it was then, consisted mainly of a row of houses used as an annex to the Poultry Comptor, a debtors prison. Those found guilty were held in these houses in the hope that they might eventually reach an amicable understanding with their creditors and avoid the prison cells.
At the end of the Court is the Hall of the Grocers’ Company, formed about 1180 as the Guild of Pepperers of Soper’s Lane, but the fraternity fell into obscurity at the beginning of the 14th century. They were next heard of in 1345 under their new title, The Company of Grocers’ and held their meetings for the next three years in the house of the Abbot of Bury (corrupted to Bevis, ie Bevis Marks). From there they took up residence in Rynged Hall in Great St Thomas Apostle where, on gaining permission to set up a chapel in St Anthony’s church, started calling themselves the Fraternity of St Anthony. Their establishment here in ‘Conyhope Lane’ goes back to 1411 when the Company purchased the house and chapel of Lord Fitzwalter and on the site built their first Hall. The foundation stone was ceremonially laid in 1427 and in little more than twelve months the brethren were installed. In the same year the Company was granted its first charter of incorporation by Henry VI. Through the generosity of John Churchman, grocer, and in 1385 a Sheriff of the City, the Company gained control of the first public weighing scales in London. At his own expense, Churchman had set up the weighing office at Woolwharf Quay, Port of London, and requested the assistance of the Company in its running. From that time the Grocers’ were responsible for the election operating clerks and this arrangement continued until a series of disputes at the weighing office resulted in the termination of their control in 1797.
In 1666 the Great Fire totally destroyed the Hall when all the silver ware was melted in the immense heat. Three years after the Fire, the Company requested Parliament to set up a fund to finance the cost of a replacement hall but their attempt was shot down before it came to debate. An effort was then made to raise rebuilding funds, estimated to be in the region of £20,000, between members but when the last penny was counted, all they could muster was £6,000. Eventually, on borrowed money, the replacement hall was completed in 1684 and stood until 1889 when it was succeeded by the third on the site four years later. Unfortunately the ravages of fire struck once again and in 1965 the Hall was almost totally burnt out with only the wall of the north wing escaping. The new Hall was completed in 1970 and contains a fine wrought iron screen retained from the 1684 building.
Had the damage caused by the 1666 Fire not been so devastating, this Hall would have been treasured not only for its great antiquity but also as the place where the Commons and the Lords took refuge in the Civil War after an attempt to apprehend four members.
Grotto Passage W1
UG: Baker Street
Bus: 2 13 18 27 30 82 113 139 159 274 to Baker Street Station
From Baker Street Station cross to the south side of Marylebone Road and walk down Baker Street. Cross Porter Street and in about 135 yds turn left into Paddington Street. Cross Chilton Street and continue past the gardens. Grotto Passage is about 65 yds on the right just before Marylebone High Street.
In modern times we tend to hear of grottos only at Christmas time; secluded corners of departmental stores and large toy shops where white bearded gentlemen in long red cloaks hide away to enchant children of every age. But that nature of event is more generally found about the streets a little to the south of here; Rudolph never pranced in the gardens of Grotto Passage and it is unlikely that Father Christmas ever knew of its existence.
The Passage has its foundations in less seasonal entertainment and owes its origin to one John Castle, creative artist and entrepreneur. After a Royal acknowledgement of his superior skill when he presented the King with an intricate replica of his Arms in shells, Castle was invited by Sir Robert Walpole to construct a grotto in the Royal Hospital garden at Chelsea. Newspapers published glowing reports on his achievements raising him over night to the status of famous. One day in 1738 he was aroused by a vision of thousands of people queuing to view his work and it became apparent that his rise to celebrated heights could be used to advantage by opening a gallery and charging the public to view his creations. His dream came to fruition when he leased a one acre site of pasture land on the west side of Marylebone High Street where he erected wooden sheds and tents for the exhibition of the numerous elaborate displays of shell-work. At a few pence entrance fee Mr Castle’s Grotto took off with immediate success. The show received a boost in popularity after a spontaneous visit by members of the Royal Family, which also provided an ideal opportunity to double the entrance fee.
As John Castle was getting on in years when he rose to celebrity status, he enjoyed only a few years of fame before extinguishing this life in 1757. The Grotto continued to attract a diminishing crowd but without the leadership of its creative master the sparkle behind the attraction had gone. It soon became unviable and closed in 1759.
That sparkle never returned to Grotto Passage and today it lies as a cramped corridor where the only creations on view are Kathleen House at numbers 1-4 and the plain fronted and rather insignificant building of the Royal British Legion Club. Despite its lacklustre it is not an unattractive Passage, but on the other hand it is not really attractive. Branching from Paddington Street through a hole in the wall, the Passage continues on an undeviating path to Garbutt Place, named after William Garbutt, the first Town Clerk of Marylebone when it was made a Borough in 1900.
Groveland Court EC4
UG: Mansion House
Bus: 11 15 17 23 26 76 to Mansion House Station
8 25 501 to St Mary le Bow
From Mansion House Station (Bow Lane, Cannon Street north side) walk along Bow Lane and cross Watling Street. The Court is about 30 yds from here on the left
A pretty and well maintained court where the sole inhabitant is Williamson’s Tavern, a fine old inn with wrought iron gates at its entrance. The tavern dates from the 17th century and is said to hold the oldest excise licence in the City. Until 1735 the building was the official residence of the Lord Mayors of London and as a reminder one of the rooms still goes under the name of Mansion House Lounge. It was in this room that William III and Mary were said to have dined as guests of the Lord Mayor, and in gratitude of a hospitable reception presented the wrought iron gates at the entrance. Having ceremoniously received the said gates his worship ordered that they be erected at some distant location, and so infuriated Her Majesty who commanded, with pointed finger, that they stay put.
At the end of its civic function the building was acquired by Robert Williamson who, with an eye for making a bob or two, turned it into a hotel. At that time the Court was known as New Court and was only changed to its present name earlier this century.
From Williamson’s Tavern it is an equal distance to all outer limits of the City. And how, you may ask, does one arrive at this momentous fragment of knowledge? Simply, on the strength of the inscription on the stone in the parlour, which tells us so. Another interesting feature of the tavern is the fireplace, which is constructed of Roman tiles excavated from ten feet below the present ground level.
Guinness Court EC1
UG: Old Street
Bus: 55 243 505
From Old Street Station walk west along the north side of Old Street and at the junction with Bath Street turn right. Keep to the left side and cross Radnor Street then turn left into Galway Street. The entrance to Guinness Court is a few yards on the right, before the library.
There are no treats in store around any of the corners leading to Guinness Court; just gloomy brick built flats of several storeys. In the true sense of the meaning, as far as this guide is concerned, it is not a court(yard) at all, but a collection of dismal dwellings with adjoining Tarmaced areas laid out for private car parking. Only after trudging around the ‘complex’ does it become evident that there is any way of penetrating the seemingly never ending high wall which provides the apparently necessary protection for these daunting buildings.
Any thoughts of finding cherished memorials to that famous Irish brewing family amid these 1960’s creations will, as sure as night follows day, culminate a most acute attack of reactive depression. In event of this eventual circumstance the most appropriate advice is probably to cross Lever Street and partake of a pint of the black stuff in the Lord Nelson public house on the corner of Mora Street.
The alleyways and courtyards of London
This page is taken from Ivor Hoole’s defunct GeoCities site listing the alleys and courtyards in Central London, last updated in 2004 and now taken offline.
The Underground Map blog lists this information as is, with no claim of copyright.