Earl’s Court has undergone a remarkable transformation over the centuries. Once a rural area characterised by green fields and market gardens, it was part of the ancient manor of Kensington under the lordship of the Vere family – the Earls of Oxford – for over 500 years. The Vere family were descendants of Aubrey de Vere, who held the manor of Geoffrey de Montbray, bishop of Coutances, as recorded in the Domesday Book of 1086. The earls held their manorial court at the site now known as Old Manor Yard, adjacent to the present-day Earl’s Court Underground station.
The construction of the Metropolitan District Railway (MDR) station between 1865 and 1869 marked a turning point in the development of Earl’s Court. On 12 April 1869, the MDR (now the District Line) extended its tracks through Earl’s Court, connecting its station at Gloucester Road to West Brompton, where it established an interchange with the West London Extension Joint Railway. Earl’s Court station itself opened in 1871.
In the following 25 years, Earl’s Court underwent a dramatic transformation, evolving into a densely populated suburb with 1200 houses and two churches. The development of the area progressed rapidly, with the construction of Eardley Crescent and Kempsford Gardens between 1867 and 1873, followed by the commencement of building in Earl’s Court Square and Longridge Road in 1873. Nevern Place was developed in 1874, Trebovir Road and Philbeach Gardens in 1876, and Nevern Square in 1880.
After the Second World War, Earl’s Court became a popular destination for Polish immigrants, earning Earl’s Court Road the nickname “The Danzig Corridor.” In the late 1960s, the area became a hub for Australian and New Zealand travellers, gaining the moniker “Kangaroo Valley.” At the time, it was one of the most affordable areas in close proximity to central London. Until the 1990s, Earl’s Court remained a relatively less affluent district compared to its more upscale neighbours to the north and west.
In recent years, the demographics of Earl’s Court have shifted, with many of the Australian and New Zealand residents moving to more affordable areas further north and west. This change can be attributed to the rapid increase in property prices during the early 2000s and the ongoing gentrification of the area. Although there is still a significant presence of students and individuals on temporary visas, the economic divide between the eastern and western parts of Earl’s Court illustrates the extent of the transformation the area has undergone.
Outside Earl’s Court station, there’s a “tardis”.
In the mid-1990s, PC John Hodges, a former beat constable, proposed the idea of installing a vandal-proof box resembling an old police box. After securing permission from the Home Office, an experimental police box was installed in April 1996 in Earl’s Court, London.
The new police box, designed to the original Trench model, featured a CCTV camera on top to monitor the area and a direct telephone line to the nearby Kensington police station for public use. The £11,000 cost of the project was primarily covered by local businesses, with many of them contributing components such as the camera and doorknobs.
The police box was assembled by London Underground at their nearby depot and placed outside the Earl’s Court tube station entrance. Despite initial optimism about its potential usefulness, the police box was decommissioned in April 2000. However, in 2005, the Metropolitan Police agreed to take responsibility for its refurbishment and maintenance.
Presently, the Earl’s Court police box serves mainly as a tourist attraction for Doctor Who fans, but it continues to fulfil its original purpose of monitoring the area through the restored CCTV camera on its roof.
Barkstone Gardens
We encounter a series of long roads adorned with elegant five-storey Victorian terraces, showcasing the charm and character of the era.
Courtfield Gardens
Turn right into Courtfields Gardens and then we’ll walk along the south side. Past the Collingham Road junction, we come across St Jude’s Church, invisible due to the foliage from here.
This church occupies an entire block and was built on the northern part of the estate here owned by Captain Robert Gunter. St Jude’s was the result of an 1867 collaboration between architects George Godwin and Henry Godwin.
The project was financially backed by John Derby Allcroft, a prosperous glove manufacturer. The spire was added later in 1879.
The building is now occupied by St Mellitus College, which offers ordination and theology courses.
Blue Plaque-wise Howard Cater lived at 9 Collingham Gardens, one block south of here.
One block south of here is the parallel Harrington Gardens and I’ll take the briefest of architectural detours.
Harrington Gardens
Part of Harrington Gardens occupies a unique position in the history of London’s residential architecture. It is one of two local developments, situated amongst unremarkable middle-class housing. It represents the pinnacle of late-Victorian architectural individualism, built between 1880 and 1888.
The architectural firm of Ernest George and Peto designed distinctive dwellings. The firm was renowned for developing an innovative and elaborate domestic architectural style that incorporated elements from northern Europe and the Queen Anne style.
One of these is the impressive residence of the lyricist WS Gilbert, located at 39 Harrington Gardens.
Courtfield Road
However, we return to where we were before that detour.
We’ll continue to the quite beautiful Gloucester Road station but I’ll save the story of that station for the next walk east along the line.
Next: Gloucester Road to South Kensington
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